I am interested in beginning to integrate Z-wave into my house. For right now, I have a switch in one room that controls the light in that room. Across the room, I have another j box that used to have a switch to control a switched outlet. I tied those wires together and covered the box with a plate so that the outlet remained always on. Anyway, I would like to set up a virtual 3 way (those 2 boxes are not connected via conduit) so I think the easiest way to create a 3-way switch is to use Z-wave and an accessory switch.
I am hoping someone can help me figure out which equipment I need to accomplish this. I think I can use my GC3 as the Z-wave controller and just install the 2 switches, but any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Also, would be nice to be able to have the lights for that room turn on when I use an ADC scene.
Linear switches are pretty much designed for what you are looking to accomplish. Using a WS15Z-1 and a WT00Z-1 transmitter will let you set up a virtual 3-way circuit. The WT00Z-1 does not physically switch the circuit at all, it wirelessly commands the other switch to do so.
Yes, and the WS15Z-1 would be the one you interact with on ADC, as it is the only switch controlling a load. The other switch simply acts as another button for the WS15Z
Great! Last question. As I begin adding more Z-wave switches, can ADC be used to turn lights on and off to look as if we are home when we are away? More like a random on/off or scheduled similarly to when we are home? Or would I need a different controller for that?
Schedules can be created on Alarm.com and there is an option to make the times approximate, which will trigger the lighting schedule give or take 45 minutes from the specified time.
OK, I installed a WS15Z-1 and a WT00Z-1 and it perfectly fits my need. My only gripe with these switches is that the color of them do not exactly match the color of all other switches on the market, so they look odd with my existing wall plates. I had to change to a different wall plate. For some reason, these white switches are a bit “bluer” than all other switches. If they had only matched the color, these would be perfect!
The only wall plate I have found that matches is the Lutron Claro CW-1-WH. Has anyone else found any other plates that match? I would prefer something a bit less expensive, and it does not need to be screwless. I use larger plates throughout the house and these don’t match. Would like to have the same plates throughout.
I would use the ones that come with the switch, but those won’t help when I need a multi-gang plate. Also, they are very small - I need something a little larger to fully cover the cutout around the electrical boxes.
I’ve never noticed myself any perceivable color difference between the switches. A wide selection of plate covers can be found at major hardware stores.
Does anyone have any experience with the Leviton Vizia switches? Does that work with 2Gig as well as the GoControl switches? Thanks
Yes, we’ve used Leviton Vizia, mostly for fan control switches, but can confirm using them with the GC2. Being switches, they’ll likely not have any trouble on a GC3.
They work well. The dimmers show up on ADC app with little sliders that go from 0 to 100%, but there really are only like two or three percentages that make any noticeable difference in the light. If you change the brightness directly from the switch or the alarm panel, you get about ten or 11 visually different brightnesses. The app doesn’t handle this well.
I’ve put in two of these: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Three-Way/dp/B0035YUOWC/ref=pd_sim_60_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0035YUOWC&pd_rd_r=S2S8MWWW2CEK5D486SJT&pd_rd_w=shMCe&pd_rd_wg=OnYD7&psc=1&refRID=S2S8MWWW2CEK5D486SJT
Thank you, David. To confirm, these switches don’t need a traveler wire between the two of them?
Jason, on the panel, when I install the switch and the remote switch, I have to associate them…do I need to associate both the switch and the remote with each other (so that each switch has the other associated with them) or do I only need to associate one with the other? I am a little confused as to how the associations need to be on the panel for a load switch and a remote controller switch.
If I recall, the auxiliary switch has connections for only two wires: neutral and traveler. The panel only sees the one actual z-wave switch. The auxiliary switch provides you the same functionality as the main switch by telling the main switch what you’re doing, but it is not z-wave and is not seen by the panel.
You must understand, though, that the three-way (or more…the GE switch I linked to can have up to four auxiliary switches) configuration using the z-wave main switch will only work with the matching auxiliary switch(s). You can not use a standard wall switch as your traveler. I tried before I understood (and read the directions). It will not work, and you very well may destroy the main z-wave switch.
Thank you, David. I think that is why I am limited to the Lutron Vizia RF+ and GoControl switches - my two switch locations are not connected by conduit, so a traveler is impossible. The Lutron and GoControl have the remote secondary switch that is completely a remote z-wave switch.
Unfortunately, the GoControl switches are a different color white and don’t match any other switches or the wall plates. The Lutron seem OK, although I was having an issue with one and am waiting for the replacement to arrive.
To confirm, these switches don’t need a traveler wire between the two of them?
No, that GE model requires a traveler wire. For virtual 3-way circuits use the WS15Z-1 and a WT00Z-1 (or the Leviton you mention).
do I need to associate both the switch and the remote with each other (so that each switch has the other associated with them) or do I only need to associate one with the other? I am a little confused as to how the associations need to be on the panel for a load switch and a remote controller switch.
The Auxiliary switch must be associated to the Load bearing switch. The WT00Z-1 cannot physically control the light, it must just be wirelessly associated to the switch. Have you gone in under device association in the GC3 Smart Home Settings and found the T00Z-1?
Have you gone in under device association in the GC3 Smart Home Settings and found the T00Z-1?
Jason, yes, I see both switches in the GC3 Smart Home settings page - I just wasn’t clear if they needed to be associated with each other WS15Z-1 to the WT00Z-1 AND the WT00Z-1 to the WS15Z-1) or just one to the other (WS15Z-1 to the WT00Z-1 OR WT00Z-1 to the WS15Z-1)
So, the GoControl switches worked perfectly, but the color was off enough that you could tell in their multi-gangs (they didn’t match the other switches or the wall plate).
So, I went with the Leviton Vizia RF+ switches. The 5 amp switch worked well with the GC3 but caused the LEDs to flicker, so I switched to the 15 amp switch which doesn’t seem to play well with the GC3 - it doesn’t communicate properly with the accessory switch. If I pair the 2 switches using the Leviton USB programmer, they work fine, but the moment I make the GC3 the controller, they no longer work correctly. Am I doing something wrong here? Any thoughts?
If those don’t work, I can try the Cooper or GE switches. I know the Cooper has a virtual 3-way. The GE requires a traveler.
One thing I am not clear on, though - what is the difference between a virtual 3 way or a GE switch and then a Z-Wave accessory switch paired together? Can’t I go that route?
So, if I can get the Vizia switches to work correctly, I would prefer to stay with those. If not, what would you suggest?
If I pair the 2 switches using the Leviton USB programmer, they work fine, but the moment I make the GC3 the controller, they no longer work correctly. Am I doing something wrong here? Any thoughts?
The two would need to be associated by a controller in their current network, just to clarify, so if you had associated the two with a different controller/network, then removed and added them to 2GIG, the association would no longer work.
One thing I am not clear on, though – what is the difference between a virtual 3 way or a GE switch and then a Z-Wave accessory switch paired together? Can’t I go that route?
I’ve not tried a mismatched model of accessory switch and main switch. As association is a Z-wave network function and not inherent in the switches, I don’t think there should be an issue.
So, if I can get the Vizia switches to work correctly, I would prefer to stay with those. If not, what would you suggest?
The recommended models to use with the GC3 are the WT00Z-1 and the WS15Z-1. We’ve not used Cooper switches, but with light switches there should be more likelihood of compatibility.
Well, this isn’t going too well. The load switch seems to work fine. I have tried the Vizia RF+ and the Leviton Decora switches.
The issue I have, though, is with the accessory switch. I have tried both the Vizia RF+ and the Cooper accessory switch.
The problem is, when the light is turned off at the accessory switch and then turned on at the load switch, you have to then press the accessory switch to turn the light off. It seems that the main switch doesn’t communicate the off status with the accessory switch, so you then have to press the accessory switch one time to put it in the ON state and then again to actually shut the light off.
If I set up the Z-wave network with a USB programmer, the associations work fine. It is only when I set up the network via the GC3 that I have this problem.
And, I haven’t found a way to set up the network with the USB stick and then associate the network with the GC3 - when I try to do that, the switches go back to not working correctly.
Any thoughts how I can get this working correctly with my GC3?