Help me understand 3 way z-wave wall switch

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1

I want to install a 3 way wall switch. How does the 2GIG and ADC system deal with this?

In a 3 way set up, lets say the zwave switch is on. I hit the other swtich and it turns the lights off switch off, even though I did not touch the z-wave switch. So it is still in the “last position” which used to be “on”, but now it is off.

Will the 2 GIG system recognize that it is now off even though you left it in the “on” position?

This matters because when you try to turn the lights on again via z-wave and don’t touch any switches, it may not work because it still thinks the switch is “on” due to its position, but it reality the lights are off because the other swtich was moved.

2
In a 3 way set up, lets say the zwave switch is on. I hit the other swtich and it turns the lights off switch off, even though I did not touch the z-wave switch. So it is still in the “last position” which used to be “on”, but now it is off.
This matters because when you try to turn the lights on again via z-wave and don’t touch any switches, it may not work because it still thinks the switch is “on” due to its position, but it reality the lights are off because the other swtich was moved.

That is not how it works. The switch on left for example, would be the main 120v line switch. The lines between switches would be the travelers.

In a zwave circuit, for example, only the left switch would be controlled.

Three way “off”

Three way “on”

3

You cannot “mix” and “match” standard and zwave switches. You must use compatible Aux switch(s) with the main zwave switch in three and four way wiring

4

While the physical switches may behave like toggle switches due to the traveler wire, the light is either on or off from Z-Wave perspective. It’s a single Z-Wave switch. When you send a Z-Wave command to turn the light on it will either 1) turn it on if it’s currently off or 2) do nothing if it’s currently on.

5

I’m sorry, I am still having trouble understanding what I need.

Currently I have 2 switches controlling a light that have no Z-wave capability.

Do I just buy this?

http://www.evolvecontrols.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/specs/LTM-5_3-Way%20Switch.pdf

or do I have to buy this as well and replace both switches

http://www.evolvecontrols.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/specs/LSM-15_Binary%20Switch.pdf

If I buy both, do I include both in the z-wave network or just one?

Would you recommend this brand (Evolve) or another brand?

Thanks in advance

6

Are you using LED’s or dimmers?

If you go with the Evolve, I think you will also need a minimote.

Evolve LSM-15 is supposed to use the Evolve LTM-5 as the remote in 3-way configurations

7

On this application no dimmer. Just on or off. I think I would to go with Leviton to match other switches. So I think I buy the. Wave vizia 3 way and the coordinating accessory switch

Leviton VP0SR-1LZ, Vizia + Digital Matching Remote Switch, 3-Way

Plus a:

DZS15-1LZ Decora Z-Wave switch

Right?

8

Other options if no dimmer, are the zwave GE/Jasco 3ways ($44 at lowes in the iris aisle)

Simple and easy.

Instructions for installing GE/Jasco 3way (requires neutral wire)

For three ways, remove all wires from both switches, meter all, one should be hot (120v) this is the primary switch ‘line’. You should see two black, one red, ground, and white (usually wire nutted)

Mark black wire that is hot (this is the common)

For main switch at 120v wire:

120v wire goes to line, red goes to traveler, other black to load, ground/bare to ground screw, use a short 14 guage white wire to pigtail off white wire nut, this goes to neutral.

On aux switch:

Meter, with main switch on, then when off, two should be hot- one when on, one when off (both travelers- usually one black and one red), one wire will have no voltage in either switch position.

Mark wire that is not hot in either switch position (this is the secondary/aux common)

Red to traveler (color isn’t really important, BUT the traveler MUST be the same wire at each switch), white pigtail to neutral, ground/bare to green wire nut. (The other two get wire nutted together, these will not be used)

pairing to panel
Services>zwave>click the ‘wrench’ >enter code>add devices
(You may need to take panel off wall, and place it near primary zwave switch)

Flip switch/light on and off until switch is added…

9
I’m sorry, I am still having trouble understanding what I need.

In my experience “what you need” sometimes depends on your existing wiring when it comes to 3-way Z-Wave switches. There are multiple ways to wire a 3-way switch and sometimes they vary, especially with older wiring. Make sure you understand how your current 3-way switch is wired and how the 3-way Z-Wave switch you’re thinking of using works before beginning. If it doesn’t make sense in your head then I wouldn’t wire it up.

10

Thanks for the diagram and video. I watched thoroughly and read carefully. I read the Leviton instructions as well.

When I opened up my manual old switches, there are only two black wires (I am assuming hot and load) and a red traveler wire. Nothing is hooked up to neutral.

I attempted to hook up the new switches and pigtailed neutrals to both primary and remote switches. LED’s on switches light, but no lights turned on. Tried reversing location of primary and remote switch, nothing.

Tried hooking a netral up to only the remote per the instructions, nothing. Tried having no neutrals. nothing.

I can not figure out what is wrong here

11

What brand switch? LEVITON? The instructions and video posted above is for the GE/Jasco.

Regardless of brand, you need to meter your wires and see what is what. Have you done this?

12

Got It.

The Leviton instructions say NOTHING about wiring the two black wires together on the remote switch. I I did that like the GE instructions said to do and it works. The remote swich is simply connected with the traveler and neutral. Left the Hot/Blk port open and all works fine

13

My switch at the remote did not work. I am correcting my instructions here in case someone else references.

Leviton Switches require that the remote (not the primary) be wired where the hot wire is at. You put BOTH the hot and load wires to the black screw, ground to green, and the red to the yellow/red screw, neutral to white

On the Primary switch, hot to the black screw, green ground, white to neutral, load to red, traveler to yellow/red

14

You may want to have an electrician look at your switch and wiring before you inadvertently cause an electrical fire.

15
Leviton Switches require that the remote (not the primary) be wired where the hot wire is at.

This is necessary for almost all Z-wave 3-way wiring. There are multiple switches, and physically one sits where line power comes in, and one just before the load. The Z-wave switch must control the load directly. The remote transmitter switch controls nothing physically. It only needs power. Because of this, you also must pass power directly to the load switch using the existing traveler wire.

If you are unsure at all about the installation, it is recommended to contact an electrician.

16

My mistake was I thought the primary switch would go to the side with the hot wire coming from the house. The remote actually goes there with Leviton. Also, joining two wires at the same screw confused me at first.

I simply wired exactly like this (attached)

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17
Leviton Switches require that the remote (not the primary) be wired where the hot wire is at. You put BOTH the hot and load wires to the black screw
This is necessary for almost all Z-wave 3-way wiring. There are multiple switches, and physically one sits where line power comes in, and one just before the load. The Z-wave switch must control the load directly.

The primary switch for GE/Jasco is the zwave switch and it is connected to load and line voltage (120v line and load are not wired together to the same terminal though). This is the same for a single and a 3way.

I can’t speak for LEVITON, but you need a meter if you are gonna mess with your home’s wiring, and if you haven’t a clue what you are doing it is better to hire someone who does, before you cause a fire or burn down your home.

Even if you think you have it right, call someone to check it. It may be too late when your home is engulfed in fire due to a electrical issue.

18

I think there may be confusion of terms.

In the first gang box of the circuit, there is no load wire. You can’t wire load and line together. There is a traveler though that needs to feed line power across to the second gang box (because both the remote transmitter and Z-wave switch require line power at all times, and line only comes in at the first box.)

I prefer to splice the traveler and line along with a jumper first, with the jumper connected to the transmitter, rather than put two wires to a screw (so I don’t run the risk of them coming loose) but what it sounds like the OP has done is connect a traveler and line to the line input on the transmitter.

Yes it is absolutely crucial to have a meter to test when installing these. You want to fully understand what you are doing. We would always recommend contacting an electrician.

19
In the first gang box of the circuit, there is no load wire. You can’t wire load and line together

On a 3way, one traveler is wired to load on the zwave switch (at least on mine)

Main:
120v wire (common) goes to line, red goes to traveler, other black to load, ground/bare to ground screw, use a short 14 gauge white wire to pigtail off white wire nut, this goes to neutral.

For secondary:
With switch on, then when off, two should be hot- one when on, one when off (both travelers- usually one black and one red), one wire will have no voltage in either switch position (common).

20
Main: 120v wire (common) goes to line, red goes to traveler, other black to load, ground/bare to ground screw, use a short 14 gauge white wire to pigtail off white wire nut, this goes to neutral.

For secondary:
With switch on, then when off, two should be hot- one when on, one when off (both travelers- usually one black and one red), one wire will have no voltage in either switch position (common).

This is incorrect.

Z-wave cannot use a mechanical 3 way because both devices need constant power. There is no switching which wire voltage is carried across to control the lights other than the Load wire (the one directly energizing the lights).

In a mechanical 3-way with dumb switches, that’s how it works, but commonly with Z-wave, the Z-wave remote transmitter does not affect where voltage travels in any way physically. It only wirelessly tells the other switch what to do.

However, it looks like in the Leviton instructions they make use of a traveler not for on/off detection. So the Leviton does get wired up using both travelers. One to deliver constant Line voltage to the other gang box, the other traveler looks like it is used to detect a change in the state of the first remote sensor switch.

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