It is possible it was originally a fire zone but was replaced. Smoke detectors have an expiration date and must be replaced. Yours may have been older and replaced with the 5808W3s.
Some sprinklers can be monitored, but I doubt they would be involved here. Trace the wires, if the sprinklers were involved there would be wires running to a flow valve on your water mains.
Is zone 1 programmed in the panel? Does the system function? Do the keypads chime and show sensor status? If so I would test the sensors in the home one by one to determine which zones are which. This will make it much easier to program the takeover module.
I’ve been able to account for zones 2-6 by tripping all sensors I’m aware of in the system. I will check for wires at a water main flow valve. In the absence of those, is there any other way to try to identify what’s currently wired to zone 1?
Regarding the 5816s: when I activate the IQ2+ will I need to unenroll them from the current system prior to enrolling into the IQ2+? I want to keep the current system running (concurrently with the IQ2+) until I install the takeover module.
If the installer did not accurately label or if changes have been made on the system since installation you are left with trial and error.
If it was labeled as a wired fire zone, but you have wireless smoke detectors, it is possible the zone was simply removed.
If you can access programming you can check if zone 1 is even enabled and what type it is programmed as. However, if you have tested all known sensors and 1 is unaccounted for, I would expect it was simply replaced by wireless smokes.
Regarding the 5816s: when I activate the IQ2+ will I need to unenroll them from the current system prior to enrolling into the IQ2+? I want to keep the current system running (concurrently with the IQ2+) until I install the takeover module.
No. You do not need to remove 345 Mhz sensors. Those sensors just broadcast status changes, they do not use two way communication and do not link to a specific system. The panel is programmed to listen to the TXIDs of the specific sensors.
it turns out i was mistaken - there actually are two wired smoke alarms in the system, as in the photos below. the red and black wires appear to correspond to the red and black wires in zone 1 of the FA148.
how do i transfer those wires to the PG9WLSHW8? is a resistor required? why is there a resistor at one of the alarms, and should it be there? how are these smoke alarms powered?
That’s a resistor correctly placed at the end of the line for a normally open zone type like the Smoke detector, yes it should be there. Two wire smoke detectors are powered across the two wires.
First thing is first though, check the installed or replaced by date. Those are likely past the replace by date. Smoke detectors have a hard end of life because the sensing element breaks down.
Actually I meant to mention there is no expiration date on either of these. To be safe I will probably just replace. Do you have a recommendation for a replacement model? Would they be wired in the same way? And then wired into one of the zones of the power g translator?
Yep, check page 18 and 19 in the manual of the wired translator for wiring instructions and a list of compatible models. Do not mix and match models. Use two of the same model and you should be good.
No, I don’t have a specific recommendation among the detectors, just be sure to use two of the same model.
First enroll the PowerG HW translator into the panel (Advanced settings - Installation - devices - security devices - auto enroll) by pressing the tamper button and programming all zones.
To enable the PGM2 output, go into Advanced settings - Installation - Devices - Security Devices - Add Sensor, Manually enter the PowerG HW Translators DL code and it will enable the PGM2 output for the 2 wire smoke detectors.
What option(s) is/are there for extending the range of these Honeywell 5816WMBR sensors to my iq2+ panel? When opening and closing the doors farthest from the panel, the panel does not recognize the status change.
do I have any options aside from getting a repeater, relocating the panel, or replacing the sensors with power g sensors?
If this is a range issue, those would be the options.
If the issue is due to it being a metal door or frame, you can sometimes re-orient the sensor or raise it off the surface with a spacer or additional tape. That can sometimes be enough to lift the antenna away from the metal to allow better signaling.
