The manual recommends a 7AH battery. I’ve no strong recommendation on brand, something like this would be fine I’ve used PowerSonics in the past.
Is there a way to objectively determine whether att or Verizon will function better at my location?
If you Private Message us the intended service address, we can check. All things being equal, we typically see better connection with Verizon.
referring to p 10 of the PG9WLSHW8 manual for wiring the power supply:
i assume i use wire of the appropriate gauge per the table based on the distance from the transformer to the panel, connecting one end to the transformer and the other to the 18VDC terminals on the far left of the panel, is this correct?
what are “input ratings” and “output ratings”, and what do you recommend for my installation? do these refer to specific types of wire, or something else?
i assume i use wire of the appropriate gauge per the table based on the distance from the transformer to the panel, connecting one end to the transformer and the other to the 18VDC terminals on the far left of the panel, is this correct?
Yes.
what are “input ratings” and “output ratings”, and what do you recommend for my installation? do these refer to specific types of wire, or something else?
That is just referencing the input power and what the transformer outputs. It is an 18VDC transformer supplying 2.22 amps.
The input is referencing the power supplied by your home receptacles.
once i power down my old panel and install the new one, how do i get surety and ADC to recognize the switch so my system will be up and running? can this switch be done after hours or over a weekend?
Yes, visit the System Manager here and select the Swap Cell Module/Panel option. You’ll be asked to enter the new IMEI and submit. This will swap the IMEI assigned to your account. You’ll then be prompted to run a cell test on the new panel to finish up the swap. This can be done at any time 24/7.
This is one of my smoke detectors. Do the wires suggest they were part of the alarm system at some point? (They have not been as long as I’ve been here but I believe the original system was all hardwired). There are some wires at the site of the original can which were not attached to the original panel or previous translator. How could I identify if one of these wires are the smokes so I can use with my current translator?
This is one of my smoke detectors. Do the wires suggest they were part of the alarm system at some point?
No. That would not be wired to an alarm panel. That is a line voltage 120AC smoke detector.
You cannot connect those directly to the translator. If you have a number of interconnected 120AC smoke detectors, they can be monitored by one Firefighter sensor. Read more here.
Ok cool. Does interconnected mean if one smoke goes off, all of them will? There are some additional smokes which are not wired - should a firefighter be installed at the non connected smokes also? Is the firefighter subject at all to false alarms? Are there similar devices with encryption? Is encryption even felt necessary for smokes, or typically just for burglary sensors?
Does interconnected mean if one smoke goes off, all of them will?
Yes, you would need to test to be sure they are installed that way, but any 120VAC smoke detector would likely be set up that way.
There are some additional smokes which are not wired - should a firefighter be installed at the non connected smokes also?
It can be I suppose, but I would recommend just replacing the smoke detector with a 319.5 or PowerG one.
Is the firefighter subject at all to false alarms?
Not that I have heard. In my experience very reliable.
Are there similar devices with encryption? Is encryption even felt necessary for smokes, or typically just for burglary sensors?
No, there aren’t any 319.5 versions that are. Encryption is valuable, but I wouldn’t let that stop me using the Firefighter, no.
Thanks Jason. Incredibly helpful as always.
how do i get the weather to appear on my panel home screen?
Weather to panel feature is included in the Surety Home and Surety Complete service plans, it is not included in Surety Alarm.
If desired, you can switch plans via the System Manager feature of your Surety account. Weather updates should be sent within 24 hours of making that change.
if the firefighter is caused to alarm by its associated detector, will the panel subsequently cause any enrolled wireless detectors to alarm locally also?
my current interconnected detectors are kidde i2060As (photo in post #48 above). the manual says pushing the test button “at least 5 sec” should cause the detector to alarm, and should cause all the other interconnected detectors to alarm as well. however, if i push and hold down the test button on one, the detector will continue to beep, but only as long as i hold it down - it will not continue to alarm if i let go. additionally, the other presumed interconnected detectors are not beeping or alarming in response (they are wired the same as the one in the photo). i’ve tried pushing the test button similarly on several of the detectors. does it sound like they are all functioning improperly? are they not actually interconnected? they are not near their printed expiration dates. the green LED is illuminated indicating AC power. the house was built after 1993, which is the year since which (i believe) interconnected smokes have been required.
it appears the IQ smoke detector is not encrypted, is that correct?
what are the differences and pros/cons of the IQ vs power G smoke detectors?
if the firefighter is caused to alarm by its associated detector, will the panel subsequently cause any enrolled wireless detectors to alarm locally also?
No, the FireFighter is independent from any Wireless smokes that are also enrolled.
additionally, the other presumed interconnected detectors are not beeping or alarming in response (they are wired the same as the one in the photo).
Based on the manual, they should all respond when testing one if interconnected. If they aren’t, this could be the result of a bad battery or fuse. Its also possible they were not wired up to be interconnected,.
it appears the IQ smoke detector is not encrypted, is that correct?
No it is not.
what are the differences and pros/cons of the IQ vs power G smoke detectors?
Operating Distance, encryption as well as powerG smokes can act as additional wireless sirens and will sound during all alarm events if programmed as such.
would a bad battery cause malfunction even in the presence of AC power?
are the fuses you’re referring to located in each individual detector? or somewhere else i would need to search for?
would a bad battery cause malfunction even in the presence of AC power?
According to the manual In an interconnected installation all interconnected alarms should sound when the test feature on any one of the interconnected alarms is activated. If no alarm sounds, check the fuse or circuit breaker supplying power to the alarm circuit. If the alarm still does not sound, the unit has defective batteries or other failure.
Its possible and something you may need to rule out. Are any of the units reporting a low battery?
This alarm has a low/missing battery monitor circuit which will cause the alarm
to “chirp” approximately every 30-40 seconds for a minimum of seven (7) days
when the battery gets low. Replace the battery when this condition occurs. Battery life should be about a year
I replaced two of the detectors and all seem to be functioning appropriately and interconnectedly now. I guess those two detectors were bad.