I have two Hikvision 2CD2142FWD-IS cameras that I want to add z-wave options too. They are equipped with alarm input and alarm output I/O boxes that i am pretty sure take dry contact connections. Here is what I would like to accomplish:
In the event an alarm is triggered at my panel by one of the many security devices I have, I would like the cameras, through a z-wave relay, to begin recording 24x7 until I turn them off. Guessing this is pretty simple through the Alarm input.
When motion is detected by the camera, I would like the z-wave relay to notify my porch light, also on a z-wave switch, to turn on. Both of my cameras are pointing at a porch. The IR light at night is not bad but both porch light substantially improve night time video. I am guessing this can be done with the Alarm output feature.
Curious if anyone has already done something like this so I don’t have to recreate the wheel. Curious if my above assumptions are correct and what z-wave relay anyone is using successfully?
I have been looking at the MIMOlite (Wireless Z-Wave Multi-Input/Output Dry Contact Bridge; Cert ID: ZC08-16040002 - Household Alarms And Detectors - Amazon.com) and the MIMO2+ (FortrezZ Z-WavePlus MiMO2+ Interface Module - - Amazon.com).
I have easy access to the house breaker box and would prefer to run directly to AC power if possible.
For #1, the Mimolite would be my suggestion. It would be considered a “Light” switch by ADC wen learned into the panel, and you could set it to flip the relay during an alarm occurrence.
For #2, the Mimolite would not work, because Z-wave “Sensors” are not compatible with any Alarm.com compatible panel. Only the switching relay would work. It would require an actual alarm sensor to function. That said, you could just use a sensor with a wired contact input if the output from camera is normally closed. You would just use something like a DW10, RE201, or RE101, depending on the panel.
(If you are using a different primary controller in addition to your Alarm panel though you could likely just use the Mimolite for both functions, would just need to set it up through that controller’s interface.)
Looks like this is regarding a GC3 panel, so I will stick to options for it:
Yes, the DW10 or RE201 have wired input triggers as well as the magnetic reed switch. They are distinguished in panel programming by loop number. For example, to use the wired input for the DW10, you would program it as normal and use loop 1. Loop 2 is the magnetic switch.
To use them as a notification/automation trigger only, you would program the zone type as (23) No Response Type.
You could then use it through Alarm.com for notifications and/or trigger for Z-wave switches, but it would never set off an alarm regardless of panel arming status.
Would one ( DW10, RE201, or RE101) be a better solution over the other?
Re201 and DW10 would be options for the GC3. The only real difference would be that the RE201 has two distinct wired inputs, the DW10 has one. If you have two cameras you want to do this with and are bringing the wires to a central point, the RE201 you’d only need one of.
Thanks again Jason. Yes, the 2GIG GC3. So does the RE201 actually have three loops then? One for the magnetic switch, and one each for each of the wired loops? Need to make sure each of the wired inputs can work independent of each other.
Also, since the mimolite is strictly a relay at this stage, and during an alarm event I would want both cameras to record, I could hook up one mimolite to both camera alarm inputs?
So new information from one of the camera vendors:
The alarm output is not a dry contact on these cameras which means there is no NO or NC. It’s an open collector type output which means it’s designed to connect a relay to it which then can be wired to either be NO or NC.
I guess now I am looking at a mimolite for the alarm input side and an RE201, and two standard relays for the alarm output side?
Is hardwiring the cameras directly to the GC3 also an option? From what I understand, the Alarm Input can be set to normally open/closed and the Alarm output is an open collector (Still trying to wrap my head around an open collector).
To make the cameras record on an alarm event: You can hook up the alarm input of the cameras to the open collector terminals on the 2 gig by setting it up to follow the internal sounder. On “Q78: Select Output (00‐12)” choose (11) Follows Internal Sounder Alarm. You would then connect the output collector to the alarm in of the camera and setup to record on alarm input.
From what I have learned, the open collector is not a NC/NO relay??? If so, is there a limit on the number of cameras that could be hooked in parallel to record?
Unfortunately I cannot find any decent documentation on the camera model provided. Only data sheets. To give definitive answers we’d really need installation manuals for the camera model.
However, based on your question:
The Open collector terminals in the GC3 Panel can be independently programmed. Technically I would use (8) activated on any alarm, rather than following the internal sounder.
What they do: When the GC3 open collector is activated, that open collector terminal connects to GND. You could use it as a NO relay if you can get wiring back to the panel. One wire in one of the collector terminals, one wire in GND. You could wire any number of cameras that way.
If the camera’s input can be set to monitor a NO circuit, yes, that could be done.
GC3 wired zones can be set as NO or NC, so if it indeed is the same type of output and doesn’t just energize the wire (most cam outputs I’ve run into are low voltage relay triggers) then I can’t see a reason why that couldn’t work.
Would certainly be easiest if the wire run is not hard. Cams wired in parallel.
You guys are awesome. Yes, the camera output is an open collector type output which is designed to connect a relay to it which then can be wired to either be NO or NC. The camera output would be used to activate either a front porch light or a back porch light, depending on which camera (front or back) detected motion. Not sure I like the motion abilities of these cameras though. Right now just looking at options.
Now, the big question, which you have definitely eluded too, is can I get access to the panel. I have tried and failed but looking to call in a professional wire puller.