Z-wave 3 way setup

The problem is, when the light is turned off at the accessory switch and then turned on at the load switch, you have to then press the accessory switch to turn the light off. It seems that the main switch doesn’t communicate the off status with the accessory switch, so you then have to press the accessory switch one time to put it in the ON state and then again to actually shut the light off.

Can you clarify the issue you are noticing? I am having trouble envisioning this. The Load switch, physically, can control the light at any time, on or off, and truly is the only switch that physically can in a virtual 3-way.

Any circumstance where the accessory switch would need to be pressed to affect a change should be impossible as its only capability is sending a signal to the load switch.

Did you mean the load switch must be pressed? Is the problem that the accessory switch can’t turn the light off after the load switch turns it on? I could see that as a possible software miscue, and it better fits with the rest of the statement about not transmitting off status.

Have you tried associating the switches in both directions with the GC3? The GC3 apparently may not handle it the same as say a Minimote might.

If I set up the Z-wave network with a USB programmer, the associations work fine.

What USB Z-wave programmer are you using? Is it possible to try adding it to the GC3 network and simply using it to associate the switches? (like the minimote)

Hey Warren,

Thank you for the info. I have shot a video of the issue so that it makes a little more sense. Should I post the link to the video here or send you an email? I also have photos of my setup that I can post or send.

What USB Z-wave programmer are you using? Is it possible to try adding it to the GC3 network and simply using it to associate the switches? (like the minimote)

I was using the Lutron Vizia RF+ to program before, but I have switched to non-RF+ switches, so it doesn’t seem to be working now. Should I use the Minimote or something like a Samsung Smartthings?

Thanks!
-David

Posting would be fine. We can double check to make sure nothing was missed. It does sound like there is something different or problematic with the GC3 association however.

Should I use the Minimote or something like a Samsung Smartthings?

The Minimote has always been the surefire suggested way recommended by Linear to link accessory switches. The minimote just becomes part of the network, you learn in the switches you want to the control panel, then just use the minimote to associate them.

The process is simply Press “Associate” button on Minimote - Perform the learn sequence on the Load Switch - Perform the learn sequence on the Accessory Switch - Exit Associate Mode by pressing any other button on the Minimote.

The learn sequence is the physical action of however the device is learned into the parent network. Usually for switches just a double tap.

Hi Jason,

Here are photos of my GC3 and the Z-Wave settings:
https://goo.gl/photos/bv9hZD4wPAN2P37K9

And here is a video illustrating the issue (hit play - don’t just cursor over - so that you get sound):

Please let me know if I have something incorrect in my setup. Otherwise, should I give the Minimote a try?

Thanks!!
-David

The video helps explain the issue, and yes, it looks like the accessory switch is just not seeing that the light status has changed. Which model of accessory switch is that in the video?

Waiting on confirmation from 2GIG that the non-Linear switches will work as expected with Minimote.

Thank you, Warren!

Currently, I am using the Leviton Decora (R03-DZS15-1BZ) as the load switch and the Eaton
Aspire RF Accessory Switch (RF9517DW) as the accessory switch.

I had the exact same issue when using the Leviton Vizia RF+ (VRS15-1LZ) as the load switch and the matching Leviton Vizia RF+ virtual switch (VRCS1-1LZ) as the accessory switch.

If the white color on the Linear switches weren’t so drastically different as the Leviton switches and wall plates, I would just use that, but they stand out so much!

Please let me know if the Minimote would work - I don’t mind picking one up and trying it out - I would just need the tutorial on how to use that and add it to the GC3.

Thank you!!
-David

Hi again, Warren,

Just wanted to follow up - I know you are still waiting for word back from 2GIG about the Minimote, but is it still worth a try? If so, I would like to try and set it up this weekend.

Thanks!
-David

From 2GIG, the Minimote should function the same as on GC2, so it would at the very least confirm if this is expected functionality of the non-linear switches at this time, or more likely resolve the issue.

Minimote documentation can be found here.

It would just be added to the network as a Z-wave device. Once in the network, you can use it to associate switches in the same network with the following (bringing the Minimote around with you to the switches):

Press “Associate” button on Minimote – Perform the learn sequence on the Load Switch – Perform the learn sequence on the Accessory Switch – Exit Associate Mode by pressing any other button on the Minimote.

Thank you, Jason. Before I add the Minimote to the network as a Z-wave device, should I remove the switches from the GC3?

Thank you!!
-David

Before I add the Minimote to the network as a Z-wave device, should I remove the switches from the GC3?

There should be no need to, no. They are not learned in any differently. The Minimote functions are all performed after they are already connected to the GC3 network.

It may be good to get rid of the GC3 association rules for them before setting up the association via the minimote.

So, I had no luck with the Lutron switches working correctly with the GC3. I ended up going with the Eaton
Aspire 15 Amp 120-Volt Single Pole RF Wireless Light Switch and the Eaton Aspire RF Accessory Switch. I set them up using the Minimote and they work perfectly together. Turning one on updates the on/off status on the other via the indicator LED. The only issue I have now is when I turn the light on or off via the ADC app, it doesn’t update the on/off status (LED) on the accessory switch. To get it to re-sync, I have to press the accessory switch twice and then it works properly again. Any ideas?

Thanks!
-David

The only issue I have now is when I turn the light on or off via the ADC app, it doesn’t update the on/off status (LED) on the accessory switch

For a virtual 3-way circuit it is not too surprising this would be the case for a remote command. The panel would not be sending status details to the accessory switch. If the Load switch does not update the associated accessory switch after a remote command, it would not have light status.

I have not tested with this model to be able to verify quickly. But you can verify that pressing the load bearing switch does change the state of the LED on the accessory switch?

Hey Jason,

Yes, pressing the load switch changes the state of the LED on the accessory switch. The only time it doesn’t is when it receives the remote command.

The Lutron switches did not work with the GC3. When I paired the Lutron load and accessory switches using a different controller, they worked fine together (the load switch would control the state of the LED on the accessory switch) but when added to the GC3, that would change and the load switch would no longer control the state of the accessory switch.

Hope this makes sense.

Thanks,
David

Unlikely to be the case, but just as a test, is there any difference when you control the load switch directly from the alarm panel?

Hi Warren - just tested that. No difference when controlled on the GC3.

That sounds like a switch limitation. I don’t think the aux switch actually receives Z-wave status from anything but the load switch. Do you have a different Z-wave hub to test with to see if it is the same?

Hi Jason, I can probably get my hands on a Smartthings hub in a few days. Would that work? And would I have to disassociate the switches from the GC3?

I wouldn’t recommend buying one just to test, but if you have access to one that would be a good test, yes.

Yeah, you would want to remove the switches from the GC3 and add them to the other hub, associate them, and test to see if commands from that hub have any difference on the LED.

Ultimately I would guess you wouldn’t see any difference, and the switch only transmits to the aux when physically pressed, but I cannot say for certain.

I will see what I can get. Would I be able to use a minimote to test? I do have one of those.

Are there any switches that has an accessory switch that responds correctly besides the Nortek switches? I would use those except the color of the switches are off enough to look bad next to other switches.

Thanks!
David

Would I be able to use a minimote to test? I do have one of those.

Maybe, a good test might be to set up a minimote scene mapped to one of the scene buttons to simply turn on the load bearing switch.

If the minimote scene turns on the light, does it turn on the LED on the aux switch?

Are there any switches that has an accessory switch that responds correctly besides the Nortek switches?

I could not verify any others. What you are seeing may be a limitation of the switch model. Testing with an alternate controller will tell.