I need to replace my GC2 panel and had a few questions. I have a hard wired system that had a Vivint takeover, which I converted to your service. So I have a take-over module with all of the zones and such configured in my GC2 panel.
I have a ton of Z-Wave devices and have converted all of them to SmartThings hub (except for my door lock). SmartThings isn’t currently connected to my GC2 panel (the panel would work as a secondary controller, but Alarms.com wouldn’t show any of the devices).
I don’t expect to need to add additional zones or “alarm” sensors.
Would I be better off to replace with another GC2 or GC3?
I’m assuming that if GC3 I would need a new cell module as well?
Can my current programming be remotely copied over to the new panel (GC2 or GC3)?
Does that include configuration for the take-over module?
I’m assuming that if GC3 I would need a new cell module as well?
Yes you would need a new cell sled for the GC3, cell communicators between the Go!Control and GC3 are not interchangeable.
Can my current programming be remotely copied over to the new panel (GC2 or GC3)?
A backup-restore process is available. It could be applied to a different GC2. Sensors, users, and programming questions.
In order to restore sensors and users to a GC3 panel, the Go!Control must actually be a GC2, it has to have symbols under the emergency key (not the word “emergency”) If it has the word spelled out on the front, that is an older version that cannot be restored to a GC3. Note that panel programming questions cannot be restored in this way, only sensors and users.
In general we have seen the restore process to a GC3 be a little less reliable than to another GC2.
Backup-Restore process in general:
Request a backup of the current settings either through secure message or email to customerservice@suretyDIY.com. (Z-wave, Image Sensors, TS1s are not able to be backed up and must be manually programmed into new panel)
Our team will notify you when the backup is run.
Power down old panel, remove communication module.
Install module into new panel but do not power it on yet. (if GC3, just ready new panel and module)
Let us know you are ready for the settings to be pushed.
Our team will notify you and provide instructions to complete the process.
I’m getting ready to pull the trigger on replacing my panel, however I recently purchased a Nintendo Switch… every time that I play the switch my alarm panel reboots (often multiple times). I’ve also noticed that this happens sometimes when playing XBox One. This is very annoying now because it triggers my console low battery alert (the reason I need to replace my panel).
I’m assuming that the panel reboots have something to do with the RF signals from the game controllers. I’m wondering if any one else has seen any similar issues? Is there anything I can do to debug this or correct it? The panel actually reboots, I’ve seen it.
Also, why is it that even though question Q53 is set to 0 that the low battery alert still reports to the CS? I get called every time this happens regardless of this setting, and having the specific alert placed on test mode for 72 hours at a time.
I’ve decided to upgrade to the GC3 panel, but I don’t really want to do that if the panel is still likely to reboot every time a game is played.
I’m getting ready to pull the trigger on replacing my panel, however I recently purchased a Nintendo Switch… every time that I play the switch my alarm panel reboots (often multiple times). I’ve also noticed that this happens sometimes when playing XBox One. This is very annoying now because it triggers my console low battery alert (the reason I need to replace my panel).
I’m assuming that the panel reboots have something to do with the RF signals from the game controllers. I’m wondering if any one else has seen any similar issues? Is there anything I can do to debug this or correct it? The panel actually reboots, I’ve seen it.
Considering that panel does not have a bluetooth radio, no, this is impossible.
You are likely having a power problem at the panel which is causing the reboots. Is the battery pack still plugged in or has it been removed?
Have you tested the voltage at the panel terminals with a multimeter? What is the length of the power cable and what gauge is the cable?
I’m actually seeing your panel report that Q53 is enabled. Please double check that.
I damaged the battery connector a while back when doing a firmware update, I tried a brand new battery and nothing. The panel does not recognize the battery. The panel is also plugged into a UPS, to keep it from losing power. So yeah, I could see it being related to a power issue, that’s really why I’m asking. I’m trying to figure out if replacing my panel will correct the issue.
However, I’m also 100% certain that the Bluetooth game controllers from the Nintendo (and to a lesser extent the XBox One) trigger the reboots (when not playing it never reboots, when playing it reboots multiple times), which I don’t understand how that could be related to a power issue.
I left Q53 enabled last time I was playing with it because it didn’t make a difference either way it was set, so I put it back the way it was. I’ll disable it again when I get home tonight.
However, I’m also 100% certain that the Bluetooth game controllers from the Nintendo (and to a lesser extent the XBox One) trigger the reboots (when not playing it never reboots, when playing it reboots multiple times), which I don’t understand how that could be related to a power issue
While I wouldn’t ever say that I have 100% certainty that something couldn’t happen, as I have seen some weird gremlins with electronics, this can be a trap in troubleshooting when establishing a pattern between two unrelated devices.
The 2GIG Go!Control panel does not communicate on 2.4ghz bluetooth (the GC3 does have a BT radio), which is the frequency used by the controllers. By default, only the Z-wave and the 345mhz transceiver would be on the panel. I would urge not to assume a direct RF interference cause as it is extraordinarily unlikely as far as I can tell unless the Switch controllers communication is very badly malfunctioning. If the correlation is 100% though, it is certainly a strong possibility that something about the setup is at fault.
Now that said, a few questions regarding the system setup:
Are the game consoles powered on the same circuit as the Go!Control Panel?
If so, are they powered off of the same receptacle? Power strip?
Was the console in use in the following times:
5/21/2017 11:53:59 pm to 5/22/2017 12:56:08 am
5/21/2017 2:34:15 pm to 5/21/2017 5:18:09 pm
The correlation is 100%, it wasn’t as noticeable with the XBox, but it did do it with the XBox just not every time. However, with the Nintendo Swtich I can pretty much guarantee that it will happen while playing it. The panel has not rebooted while not actively playing one of these. Interestingly, there are lots of other Bluetooth devices that don’t seem to trigger it: Phones, TVs, Watches, Computers, Mice, Cars… etc.
Are the game consoles powered on the same circuit as the Go!Control Panel?
If so, are they powered off of the same receptacle? Power strip?
No, they are on completely different circuits.
Was the console in use in the following times:
5/21/2017 11:53:59 pm to 5/22/2017 12:56:08 am
5/21/2017 2:34:15 pm to 5/21/2017 5:18:09 pm
Yes, those are time frames yesterday while the Nintendo Switch console was actively being played.
Do you use wireless speakers? If yes what model?
Yes, Sonos (Wi-Fi) speakers, they are in use all of the time.
I’m hoping that whatever the issue is goes away with the new panel.
I would assume as much.
All the consoles use bluetooth for controllers afaik, and I can say that I’ve never seen a PS4 cause any interference.
Another individual here has a Switch and has a 2GIG Go!Control Panel at home and hasn’t noticed any of what you are reporting.
If there is a cause related to the consoles, it is likely peripherally related. Power draw from the house electrical panel, dirty power or surges/drops, without an internal battery it is very difficult to definitively rule that out even with an UPS.
I’m poking 2GIG with the question, but I don’t think they’ve heard anything like this, and manufacturer support will not be able to make recommendations regarding third party devices.
Just curious, is the panel location really close by the consoles? Or is it elsewhere in the home?
Just curious, is the panel location really close by the consoles? Or is it elsewhere in the home?
Just guessing, but I'd say the panel is about 30-40ft away from the TV and game consoles. The panel also communicates with 2 take over modules which are about as far away.
The switch is mobile and battery powered as well, so I may see if I can replicate the issue while un-docked. That would eliminate any direct power glitch kind of possibilities.
The switch is mobile and battery powered as well, so I may see if I can replicate the issue while un-docked. That would eliminate any direct power glitch kind of possibilities.
Yeah, give it a shot running on battery and the built in screen. Break as many habits as you would typically follow. Use it in the room where the panel is found, and note any other electronics used during the time.
If you do or do not see reboots only during that time, either way it would help tell us something.