i’ve been unable to elicit any sort of consistent or reliable shock detector response on the sliding door pictured below when mounting the sensor in area 1.
would a different setup such as an on-glass sensor wired to an IQ mini D/W extended sensor work better for this type of sliding glass door? or any other suggestions?
Have you tried installing the sensor on the door and the magnet on the frame?
Have you performed the Shock Detector calibration outlined in the manual here?
I am a fan of wired on-glass shock sensors. I have had good experience using the GE 5150W. However, if you have not calibrated the sensor yet I would try that.
yes i also tried sensor on door, even though i know it’s not recommended. when calibrating, i can sometimes get a “4” when knocking on the wooden frame or striking the window with a screwdriver handle, but then if i replace the cover i cannot generate the same response, even when placing the sensitivity to 1.
A wired on-glass shock sensor like the 5150W or similar model may be more suited, but you would need one per glass panel. They can be wired to the same sensor in series, or they can be wired to different sensors.
ok do you recommend pairing the 5150W with an IQ D/W sensor? or any other combinations or alternatives to consider in place of the PG9935?
Yep, an IQ DW Extended with 5150W should work for you.
Is the IQ glassbreak detector known to be an effective and reliable device? Is the Honeywell FG701 known through comparison to actual breaking glass to reliably predict the reliability of the glassbreak detectors?
Yes.
The FG701 is designed specifically to test Honeywell detectors. It is effective for testing those, however I have found myself often simply using sound files of breaking glass in addition to a quick thud (like tapping the window with a soft handle.)
Ok. I asked mainly because the installation guide for the IQ glassbreak said to use the FG701 for testing.
When testing using sound files, does the volume at which they are played affect the accuracy of the simulation, or is it mainly the frequency and and pitch of the sounds that are important?
The FG701 is the most popular tester in terms of a security manufacturer-designed glass break testers that I am familiar with. There are others like Bosch and GE models, but If the manual calls out a specific tester, definitely use it to test that particular model. I apologize, I forgot the instructions for the IQ S-Line Glassbreak called for the FG701’s use.
I’ve used sound files in a pinch for mostly 2GIG Glass breaks, but they are less resistant to false alarms than most, and you can trigger one with a stomp and jingling keys.
Use the FG701 if you get the IQ S-Line Glass Break.
are shock sensors or glass break detectors generally considered to be more reliable for armed stay perimeter security? how do you suggest choosing between the two?
I suggest shock sensors over glass break detectors in most scenarios. If there are a lot of windows in one area to cover, a glass break is more efficient, but a shock sensor will be better at preventing false alarms.
There is nothing wrong with using either one, but shock sensors tend to be less false alarm prone.
got it. is one or the other more likely to miss an true alarm/intrusion?
how does the IQ shock S compare to the PG9935?
That would come down to installation. If you follow the manual and range limits, both should be able to detect intrusion successfully.
The IQ Shock S and PG9935 would have similar performance.
I decided to order a GE 5150 and a DSC PG9945 for a window that needs shock detection.
Can the 9945 be learned in to the reed switch and aux (for the shock wiring) at the same time? If so I can remove my PG9303 and repurpose to another window.
Also, the 5150 is getting very difficult to find, particularly in white. I presume with is due to Interlogix closing up shop. I was only able to find a brown sensor.
Can the 9945 be learned in to the reed switch and aux (for the shock wiring) at the same time? If so I can remove my PG9303 and repurpose to another window.
It would be learned in twice. Select the appropriate function for each. It will ask you to select the reed switch or aux input.
Installing the GE5150 with the PowerG contact sensor + Aux.
I learned the sensor to Aux (instead of reed switch) but I have the option of NO or NC. I presume the 5150 is NC?
Yes, normally closed would be correct
for the PG9945 - 5150W setup, under what circumstances does the 47kohm resistor need to be used? it needs to be squeezed into the sensor casing?
See section from manual below. Resistor is not required.
