Initial 2GIG system setup questions

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I just got my 2gig system from suretydiy today and have a few questions about the setup.

First, I ordered a FF345 with the intent to monitor connected smoke/CO combo sensors (Nest Protect). The device arrived pre-configured in my panel and it appears to have one zone installed. From the manual that came with the device, they make it sound like you need to enroll smoke and CO separately. If I want both, I assume that you’ve probably enrolled for smoke and I will need to enroll separately (in a new zone) for CO? The current programming uses Loop 2; should I be using that for both devices? (I don’t have any idea what the different loop numbers are supposed to mean, and the 2gig install manual doesn’t really shed much light.) Additionally, from YouTube videos, it looks like the test cycle for the Nest devices just goes through one set of beeps for smoke followed by one for CO. Is that enough to set off the listener to make sure it’s working? Or am I going to have to do something special to make sure the listener is actually doing its job.

Second, I had a large number of Honeywell wireless window contacts (5811 and 5800MINI) in my (now dead) existing system. I’ve successfully enrolled all of them using type 3 (perimeter) and code 655 (existing door/window). What loop number should I use for these? Right now, they’re all on loop 1.

I’m additionally planning to add in 5 wired door contacts via a takeover kit. I assume I should follow these instructions?

Finally, I’m putting in a few Honeywell 5853s. These seem to have a pre-configured code in the GC3. Any special settings (loop number) there?

Thanks,
Pat

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If I want both, I assume that you’ve probably enrolled for smoke and I will need to enroll separately (in a new zone) for CO? The current programming uses Loop 2; should I be using that for both devices?

Looking into this, It looks like this is a 2GIG-FF345, the newer model, not an EC-FF345. The correct Loop number for both zones (smoke and CO) would be 1. I’ve sent a command to make that change. This would be the fire detection zone.

You will want to test this device with your account on test mode with the central station to verify that the Nest Protect will trigger it. Make sure the nest sounder goes off for at least 10-15 seconds.

Is that enough to set off the listener to make sure it’s working? Or am I going to have to do something special to make sure the listener is actually doing its job.

No, you would need to trigger the smoke detector if there is no way to hold a test button to continue the sounder. This is best practice anyway, and can be tested easily with canned testing smoke. You can find these online or at some hardware/superstores.

(I don’t have any idea what the different loop numbers are supposed to mean, and the 2gig install manual doesn’t really shed much light.)

I know, I don’t much care for 2GIG’s manual style recently. Important information is fairly hidden, or in some cases absent.

The Loop numbers are discussed in the single bullet-point paragraph under the “Enrolling” section of the paper instructions.

The CO zone, should you have reason to use it, would be setup with Loop 1, but it uses the serial number of the device +1 (added to last digit). You can learn it in specifically by holding the learn button as opposed to pressing it. Instructions are in that same bullet point under Enrolling section.

I had a large number of Honeywell wireless window contacts (5811 and 5800MINI) in my (now dead) existing system. I’ve successfully enrolled all of them using type 3 (perimeter) and code 655 (existing door/window). What loop number should I use for these? Right now, they’re all on loop 1.

Loop number should be 1 for the 5811 and 5800Mini. Typically if a sensor only has one function, it will use Loop 1, but of course this is not always the case (the older ECFF345 used loop 2, no other function.)

I’m additionally planning to add in 5 wired door contacts via a takeover kit. I assume I should follow these instructions?

Yes, that page and video show the installation and programming steps for a TAKE-345.

All TAKE zones are always loop 1.

Finally, I’m putting in a few Honeywell 5853s. These seem to have a pre-configured code in the GC3. Any special settings (loop number) there?

Loop is also 1 for the 5853.

You will want to decide whether you want them to trigger an alarm during Away and Stay (zone type 3, perimeter) or only during Away mode (zone type 4, Interior follower)

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No, you would need to trigger the smoke detector if there is no way to hold a test button to continue the sounder.

The manual (apparently not available online) has a section that says:

During the first hour after powering up, the FireFighter is in test mode. This allows you to use the test button on the Smoke, CO, or Combo unit to test the system. After the first hour, the FireFighter requires at least two valid patterns from the detector to validate the alarm, which may not be possible via the detector test button. ...

I assume if I did a battery pull, it might kick it back into test mode? I’ll probably give it a try when I get my Nest devices out of the box this weekend and see what happens.

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I assume if I did a battery pull, it might kick it back into test mode?

Believe you’ll want to leave the battery out for about 60 seconds for this. However, it is important to note that testing via the button does not actually prove the efficacy of the smoke detector. Only a canned smoke test tells you the detection portion actually works. It is best to test in this way.

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Believe you’ll want to leave the battery out for about 60 seconds for this. However, it is important to note that testing via the button does not actually prove the efficacy of the smoke detector. Only a canned smoke test tells you the detection portion actually works. It is best to test in this way.

Yes, you are right, of course. From searching around, it sounds like canned smoke is a pretty reliable way to test the smoke portion, but getting good testing for carbon monoxide is trickier. (( Repeated false alarms for CO with fire department visits – even after replacing all the sensors – is what brought me down the replacement path. My house has the craziest hard-wired system known to man built in 1999. It’s a spare-no-expense “sensors on everything” system with two auxillary 12V transformers plus the 12V on the main board. The wiring box for the whole system is probably 72"x36". I don’t trust any of the wiring at this point. Thankfully, my locality hasn’t fined me for false alarms. ))

I did just get one other idea for testing the listener when my random search phrases brought up a hit on YouTube for a video titled “1 Hour of Smoke Detector Alarm”. Maybe I can outsmart the listener if the battery pull doesn’t work.

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My house has the craziest hard-wired system known to man built in 1999. It’s a spare-no-expense “sensors on everything” system with *two* auxillary 12V transformers plus the 12V on the main board. The wiring box for the whole system is probably 72″x36″.

I know what you mean, enormous systems often also have multiple installers who have added/changed things over the years, with various degrees of documentation. If you know at least a portion of the wires however for hardwired sensors you can save a good deal with a TAKE-345. (I know you mentioned it above)

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I was originally going to go 100% wireless and ordered as such. But then I decided to get the pro that helped me maintain the old system to come out and help me decommission the old wiring so I don’t have any live 12V wiring going to the old sensors I plan to remove. Since he’s already coming out, I’m getting him to help me power the new panel off current keypad wiring and find the right wired zones to move over to the TAKE-345.

Thanks,
Pat

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FYI – I did a battery pull on the Firefighter, re-enrolled it with two separate zones for smoke and CO, ran a regular test cycle on one of my Nest Protect devices (with one set of beeps each from smoke and CO), and found that the listener successfully picked up both signals. So I should be good to go for hanging the whole set up on the ceilings now. Thanks for your help.