"Dummy" zwave switch?

Hi. I’m looking for a light switch that doesn’t actually need to be wired; it should just look something like a standard light switch and be adhered to a wall, but when used it would transmit zwave on/off and can be included as a standard switch. The purpose is to toggle another zwave device, line an actual in-wall GE zwave light switch. Add you can guess, the purpose is to have a three-way switch setup without having to have any of the wiring for one.
Case in point: I have a light switch that is in a stupid location, behind an always open door, that controls the lights inside the room which lies beyond said door. There is no way to add a wired switch inside the room. Ideally, changing the poorly placed switch to zwave, then placing a zwave remote switch of some kind somewhere inside the room, preferably next to the door frame as one would expect, the lights can be controlled normally.
Does such a switch device exist? Thank you.

I only know of one and it is an Aspire brand which is generally not compatible with any of the Alarm.com compatible systems. It is a rare lighting brand that just doesn’t play well.

It also looks like it is out of stock everywhere and may not be available anymore.

But there is another option. With automation rules you can create a switch that controls another Z-wave light (or multiple). The video below is specific to 2GIG, but can be done for any system with a compatible sensor. (Like for the IQ Panel 2+ an IQ Door Window Extended sensor)

Jason!!! That’s great! Thank you! There’s definitely money to be made for a company that makes a purpose-built switch to do what I suggested, but your ad-hoc method, which will use any switch, will work great, look like every
other switch I have, and is available now! I was hoping to avoid cutting into the wall, but hey…no wiring required, save for to the sensor.

This is why I subscribe to Surety. People like yourself who have the knowledge and experience to make things work. Thank you again Jason.

David

Aeotec has a multi scene controller that is wireless, but I don’t believe it is compatible. And at one point ADC was working on a little wireless scene controller I think, but I don’t believe anything ever came of it.

I do see potential issues regarding ‘state’. It will be possible for the physical switch/sensor pair to become out of sync with the zwave light switch it controls via rule. For example, turn the light on with the ad-hoc switch, but later turn it off with the real zwave switch. The ‘dummy’ will still be in the on position.

I guess the way around that would be to maybe cover the real switch somehow, although the reason to go through this exercise is because no one realizes the switch is there in its afore-described stupid location anyway. Further, is there a way to prevent the zwave switch from even showing as a light switch on ADC as it is just another way to become out of sync with the dummy switch?

If I found a momentary contact rocker switch, similar to the standard zwave light switches, and the ‘on’ button is actuated, will the dw sensor send the state change to the panel via the accessory terminals on the sensor even though it is currently ‘on’?

You wouldn’t be able to hide the switch in Alarm.com, it would need to be connected to the panel and account in order to create the rule.

You cannot create a rule to “toggle” the switch via a momentary button. You can only set it to turn “On” or turn “off” from a specified event.

If it is already on (because the Z-wave switch was controlled directly) and the physical rule switch (the video example) is in the “off” position already, it would just need to be flipped on, then off again.

If you need a true 3-Way switch, you can use a virtual 3-way switch setup. There are a couple options there, like the WT00Z-1, but the accessory switch would need line power, it wouldn’t need to be connected physically to the other switch, but it would need 120VAC.

interesting. So with the
WT00Z-1, does it control the actual load-baring zwave switch via a rule?

No, via Z-wave association. This is performed by the panel or a third party controller like the Aeotec Minimote.

You would need the switch and the accessory switch. So like the WS 15Z5-1, and the WT00Z5-1.

So, on the IQ2+, how would this be done?

Settings > Advanced Settings > Installation > Devices > Z-wave Devices > View/Edit Associations.

Perfect! Thank you

Jason, I finally set this up as you described: The Qolsys extended dw sensor, some wire, and a standard rocker-style light switch. My question is: how do I add the dw sensor to the panel so that it doesn’t trigger an alarm when the panel is armed? I did add it as an interior safety thing and have it a custom name “dummy switch” if you look at my setup. I just don’t know if I have it right even though it does absolutely work as I had hoped. Thank you.

how do I add the dw sensor to the panel so that it doesn’t trigger an alarm when the panel is armed?

Sensor Group 25. That sensor group is for chime/notification only and while it can still drive automation rules, it will never generate an alarm.

Looks like that is how you have it set already. Should be good!

Thank you

Hi Jason,
So today I installed the switch/dw sensor combo in the wall. After doing so, the switch now works only occasionally. The panel says the signal strength is “critical” at -94db. As the crow flies the distance between the sensor and the panel is about 50 feet. There’s no metal in the walls as far as I know; it’s all sheetrock.
How can I improve the signal? I imagine that the 319MHz Qolsys cares not for the zwave mesh that is existing inn my house and therefore needs something else. Is there a repeater available?

The sensor is not actually near any line voltage right? It is just a new gang box that is otherwise empty?

You can improve standard 319.5 signals with an RE524X. You would need to use the unencrypted signal source in panel programming for that sensor. (S-Line transmits both encrypted and unencrypted.)

Thank you. Yes, it’s in an empty box

Is this the correct device you’re suggesting?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Alula-RE524X-Universal-Wireless-Translator-Simplifying-Resolution-Security/393080573934?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20191002094254%26meid%3Dffb8b16a032d4efba1f7583f83729893%26pid%3D100891%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D264229108745%26itm%3D393080573934%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DDefaultOrganic%26brand%3DHoneywell&_trksid=p2332490.c100891.m5206

Yes, whoops I thought I added a link for that product. Here it is in our store.

That ebay price for it is very good, the only caveat would be to verify if it is new or not. Those have a feature where they can be locked to a certain frequency so they can’t be “taken over” and used with a new system.

If new, you should be fine.

Thank you Jason. A few more questions of I may:

  • Qolsys is considered Interlogix for the purposes of configuring the repeater?
  • Can more than one of these devices be learned by the IQ2+ for the purposes of using sensors from multiple vendors?
    • Can I have two of these, one as a repeater and the other as a translator?
  • Sensors that I wish to “repeat” need to be cleared from the IQ2 panel and then learned again via the repeater?
  • The instructions weren’t clear to me on a point: how do I ensure that a particular sensor is learned into the IQ panel via the repeater, at a hopefully superior signal strength, as opposed to being learned by the IQ panel directly, but at
    a weak strength (the situation I have now)? I worry about the situation where the IQ might be presented with the same sensor from two signal paths, one direct and the other repeated.
  • What advantages are there for me as a DIY home user to cutting the lock jumper?
    Thank you Jason.

David