Designing DIY security, energy & camera system

I’ve been looking at your site with great interest, though with so many different options and brands, I wanted to get some expert advice. I wanted to see if I can specify some of the things that I am looking for, and have you can tell me whether it is possible with any of equipment you sell, and if so - which of them specifically would be best suited for my scenario.

Ideally, I would like one platform to centrally manage all aspects of alarm, energy and cameras. It looks like you partner with alarm.com and they seem to offer that, though also wondered what specifically I would lose (other than monitoring) if I wanted to use whichever system without alarm.com? Is there a way to set up rules and such locally on the panel or through a computer on the same LAN?

To give a little background, I am in an approx. 2500 sq. foot house. It is 1.5 levels (upstairs is open/overlooks downstairs). Front/Back door and side door that leads into the garage.

Security system:

A self contained panel and keypad would be ideal. I like the idea of a big, clear touchscreen that is easy to use. Also, what is recommended for running the power cable/concealing it? - especially if the keypad/panel is located in a living area. I would probably like a second smaller keypad for the less used entrance. I’m primarily concerned with securing the ground floor, as it would not be very easy to try and get access from the upper floor. Therefore, I would just need to get sensors for 3 doors, and perhaps a motion sensor and glass break in the center of the house to cover any access through windows. I do not have a POTS land-line, and so I would like to have one that can use both cell communication and the internet for management and relaying signals. I do not have the greatest cell reception where I live, and so a booster/extension for would likely be needed for any cell communication. If I can get a reliable and consistent signal strength, I would like the cell to be the primary and the internet to be the redundancy. With the latter, the panel would also have to have WiFi capabilities.

Energy:

I have two separate HVAC systems (heat-pumps) - one on each floor. They each have one single, basic and non-programmable thermostat that I would like to replace. If the thermostat controls are accessible through the main keypad, then only a second dedicated one would need to be purchased for upstairs. As the two levels are open to each other, my main challenge is maintaining a balance between the two systems. We do not use upstairs much, however if I am using the heat downstairs, I have to have the upstairs thermostat running at an even higher temperature to prevent the heat from downstairs rising up. The reverse is true in the summer. This is not very energy or money friendly and so any suggestions for that scenario are welcome. Right now, when I leave the house, I turn each thermostat down a few degrees and then turn them back up when I return (maintaining a degree of two difference respectively). This is a hassle, and so ideally, I am wanting a solution where they could be managed simultaneously, or even better have one react in accordance with an action taken with the other. Essentially rule to keep them running in harmony whether they are heating/cooling or off. And in regards to having a central platform, I would like it automated to where these thermostats could be programmed to take a certain action based on if anyone is home. So if I was to leave and arm the alarm as away, I would want to thermostats to go into an energy saving mode. Further, the bedrooms that are downstairs tend to struggle to heat/cool like the lounge unless all internal doors are left open, which isn’t practical. Therefore, I would like a thermostat that supports multiple sensors that can be placed in certain rooms, and dictate the HVAC operation based on an average reading vs. just the temperate on a single thermostat in the middle of the house. If those sensors could be motion sensitive too, that would be nice, so it can determine whether to keep pushing for that average temperature based on the occupancy of the monitored rooms. Beyond that or if that doesn’t resolve the issue, I would be interested in integrating some of the automated register controls to aid in distributing air to only where desired, when desired. On a related note, I would like to have a controller attached to the water heater, so I can either program it to come on only at certain times, and/or have it turn off with the alarm being armed.

Cameras:

I do not need anything as fancy as above for this!..I’m probably looking at 4 cameras total - 3 outside and 1 inside. Obviously they would need to be good for both outdoors and inside if they are all the same. Night vision would be required, unless some variable motion lighting is installed alongside them. One would be for the front porch and one would be either for the back porch or just the back of the house. The third would be over the garage door/driveway and the last would be in the main room of the house/lounge. Therefore, if there are different ones that would be better for those different applications, I would be interested to know. I would like 720p minimum resolution. I have a desktop that I can devote to being a dedicated NVR if needed, as well as a POE switch. With that said, I think wiring networking cable is going to be tricky, as not all areas of the attic are accessible - which negates having everything run through there, and don’t see anywhere else it could really go. Therefore, I was thinking about wireless cameras. I know reliability and bandwidth will potentially suffer with HD quality video, but short of tearing the house up, I think that this is the only option right now. If the DVR is secured, I am not worried about keeping footage locally, though if they had an option to automatically snap a picture on motion and e-mail/upload it offsite, then that would be a bonus.

Thank you in advance for your help and time.

Let’s see if I can tackle these one at a time.

  1. Ideally, I would like one platform to centrally manage all aspects of alarm, energy and cameras. It looks like you partner with alarm.com and they seem to offer that, though also wondered what specifically I would lose (other than monitoring) if I wanted to use whichever system without alarm.com? Is there a way to set up rules and such locally on the panel or through a computer on the same LAN?

suretyDIY only offers Security and Automation services through Alarm.com, and Alarm.com enables remote access to your connected devices from anywhere. No networking knowledge is really necessary for any of the compatible equipment. You would not be connecting across you home LAN. You are right in that there are a lot of equipment choices. Compatible panels are as follows:

2gig Go!Control
DSC Impassa
Interlogix Concord
Interlogix NX
Interlogix Simon 3
Interlogix Simon XT
Interlogix Simon XTi
Qolsys IQ Panel

  1. A self contained panel and keypad would be ideal. I like the idea of a big, clear touchscreen that is easy to use. Also, what is recommended for running the power cable/concealing it? - especially if the keypad/panel is located in a living area. I would probably like a second smaller keypad for the less used entrance. I'm primarily concerned with securing the ground floor, as it would not be very easy to try and get access from the upper floor. Therefore, I would just need to get sensors for 3 doors, and perhaps a motion sensor and glass break in the center of the house to cover any access through windows. I do not have a POTS land-line, and so I would like to have one that can use both cell communication and the internet for management and relaying signals. I do not have the greatest cell reception where I live, and so a booster/extension for would likely be needed for any cell communication. If I can get a reliable and consistent signal strength, I would like the cell to be the primary and the internet to be the redundancy. With the latter, the panel would also have to have WiFi capabilities

2Gig and Qolsys, the two panels directly sold here at suretyDIY are exactly as you describe. They are all-in-one touchscreen control panels. Numerous small and large differences exist, but they boil down to very similar concepts.

For internet back-up, 2Gig requires the Go!Bridge. The bridge speaks with your panel across its 900mhz transceiver. The bridge plugs directly into your router via ethernet port.

Qolsys contains a built-in wifi radio for dual path. Any system set up through Alarm.com would use cellular primary communication (this is required) and for these two described options, internet would be a concurrent back-up. Signals are sent via both methods simultaneously.

2Gig has available the TS1 secondary touchscreen keypad. The Qolsys secondary keypad is not yet available.

  1. I would like it automated to where these thermostats could be programmed to take a certain action based on if anyone is home. So if I was to leave and arm the alarm as away, I would want to thermostats to go into an energy saving mode.

Alarm.com has that very feature available with thermostats.

All thermostat control can be set for a schedule, with automatic overrides based on arming status, projected outside temperature, etc.

Direct control is of course also available via the Alarm.com mobile app and website.

  1. Therefore, I would like a thermostat that supports multiple sensors that can be placed in certain rooms, and dictate the HVAC operation based on an average reading vs. just the temperate on a single thermostat in the middle of the house.

This may be of interest.

  1. I'm probably looking at 4 cameras total - 3 outside and 1 inside. Obviously they would need to be good for both outdoors and inside if they are all the same. Night vision would be required, unless some variable motion lighting is installed alongside them.

Alarm.com has a variety of compatible outdoor and indoor cameras with IR night-vision. The most popular outdoor camera is found here. Indoor here.

6.

I would like 720p minimum resolution. I have a desktop that I can devote to being a dedicated NVR if needed, as well as a POE switch.

The linked cameras above meet your resolution criteria. You would not use a local computer for NVR storage as Alarm.com cameras utilize Alarm.com cloud video storage. (There is the ADC SVR which will be available at some point in the future which will provide a local storage option.)

7.

I think wiring networking cable is going to be tricky, as not all areas of the attic are accessible - which negates having everything run through there, and don’t see anywhere else it could really go. Therefore, I was thinking about wireless cameras.

The linked cameras above are wireless.

8.

if they had an option to automatically snap a picture on motion and e-mail/upload it offsite, then that would be a bonus.

Alarm.com video cameras can be set to immediately and automatically send you a thumbnail of motion recorded video, or even a lower res copy of the clip itself, straight to your smartphone.

Jason,

I am the OP, but that isn’t my profile as one of your colleagues kindly submitted my email inquiry to the forum to get it answered.

Firstly, thank you for such a quick and detailed reply. Secondly, it seems like you know more about alarm.com than they know about themselves! (e.g. the ALARM.COM sensor based thermostat).

Alarm.com actually told me that multi-sensor temperature averaging functionality wasn’t supported (yet) - perhaps they were referring to this, but just decided not to indulge me!..do you know when that new thermostat is coming out? My concern with some of the propriety hardware is whether it will work as good as a standalone thermostat if say for whatever reason I discontinued the monitoring service. I don’t think this even had a full 7-day programmable schedule (as alarm.com obviously intend you to do this online).

You listed 2 models by different brands as options, but would be interested to know of any specific recommendations between them? I heard that 2gig are coming out with a new panel to rival the Qolsys’ current one. Do you know anything about it?..release date and/or whether it would be worth holding out for? I’ve reached out to 2gig multiple times and have not heard back, which doesn’t build confidence in me for future support.

Also, I forgot to ask Qolsys, but do you know when their secondary touchscreen keypad is going to be available?

I know you partner with alarm.com and so can only recommend them, but is there any other equipment/technology or service on the horizon that I should be aware of/looking at?

Not panel specific, but more in general, as equipment from you guys is self-install, can you tell me if there any special trick to running the panel’s transformer cable? I mean I know the obvious answer is through the wall, but i don’t have a power socket close to where I want the panel, and even if I did, I wouldn’t want the transformer right there for any thief to mess with. I know there is some type of smash and grab protection now for alarm.com, which is great, but still not ideal and its also an eye-sore. Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance!

Mike

do you know when that new thermostat is coming out?

I do not have a release date. It was in fact recently announced, so we don’t have a ton of info on it available. I think you are right in that this model is clearly designed specifically and exclusively for use through Alarm.com. It will certainly have reduced stand-alone functionality, but it is their product after all.

You listed 2 models by different brands as options, but would be interested to know of any specific recommendations between them? I heard that 2gig are coming out with a new panel to rival the Qolsys' current one. Do you know anything about it?...release date and/or whether it would be worth holding out for?

We unfortunately have been waiting patiently for a while now regarding the GC3 release and have been asking 2Gig the same questions. All I can say is that we expect word soon. The hard details have yet to release, but the prototypes look awfully slick.

Also, I forgot to ask Qolsys, but do you know when their secondary touchscreen keypad is going to be available?

I was told early Q1, but these things always get delayed for some reason or another. Probably by spring.

I know you partner with alarm.com and so can only recommend them, but is there any other equipment/technology or service on the horizon that I should be aware of/looking at?

This.

The GC3 dominates a lot of equipment discussion, but unfortunately there’s not enough to discuss yet.
Lutron Caseta is in beta testing with ADC integration.

Not panel specific, but more in general, as equipment from you guys is self-install, can you tell me if there any special trick to running the panel's transformer cable? I mean I know the obvious answer is through the wall, but i don't have a power socket close to where I want the panel, and even if I did, I wouldn't want the transformer right there for any thief to mess with. I know there is some type of smash and grab protection now for alarm.com, which is great, but still not ideal and its also an eye-sore. Any thoughts?

The most common solution is to simply run down into a basement. This can be tricky if you have a fully finished basement. If you feel like being handy, you can always do something like this, courtesy of an enterprising DIYer.

...If you feel like being handy, you can always do something like this, courtesy of an enterprising DIYer. https://suretyhome.com/forums/topic/qolsys-power-supply/

I am no electrician but you might want to think twice about this. It may be a very bad idea as it may violate the National Electric Codes (NEC).

"not supposed to have high/low voltage in same box unless divided properly...also have to reach past the terminals on the switch to remove/plug in the 14VDC transformer, that could be a problem..."

You have a fire in your home, and this setup violates the NEC, your Homeowners insurance may deny your claim citing NEC and building code issues/violations that may or may not have contributed to the fire.

Perhaps someone can confirm.

“Communication conductors shall not be placed in any raceway, compartment, outlet box, junction box, or similar fitting with conductors of electric light, power, Class 1, non-power-limited fire alarm, or medium power networkpowered broadband communications circuits.
Exception No. 1: Where all of the conductors of electric light, power, Class 1, non-power-limited fire alarm, and medium power network-powered broadband communications circuits are separated from all of the conductors of communications circuits by a permanent barrier or listed divider.”

See this catalog page 13 for an advertised solution. Not sure it will work in the above case though. Perhaps another solution would be to use the switch to control the low voltage power wire for the panel rather than the receptacle? I’m not sure about code compliance in that case with a recessed receptacle, but something to look at.

Thanks fellas for the commentary…as much as I want a tidy installation, I don’t think I’ll risk voiding the panel warranty or worse, burning my house down to hide the wire!..I’m just used to installing a separate control panel in an ugly beige box in the back room of businesses, where cosmetics aren’t as much of an issue and which typically have drop ceilings for easier wiring and such. I want to single-self contained unit, though it seems that a clean residential install is gonna be a little trickier than I thought (no basement Jason!)…I’ll figure something out!

Here is how I did mine (main panel and secondary keypad). Another option is to trench a wire path with something like a keyhole saw, and then patch/paint. Trench to wherever you need to go, or even trench to baseboard, then run/conceal wire behind it.

You can also get wire hiders and run wire behind them into drop tile ceilings, or along wall corners. You can pant them over.

Both my main and secondary panels have battery backup power, so even in event that the wall plugs/power transformers are pulled out, panel and TS1 won’t lose power. Visable transformers is not an aesthetic issue for me worth the time and effort neccessary to conceal or hide.

Wire hider:

Main panel:

Secondary panel at entry:

Power transformer:

though also wondered what specifically I would lose (other than monitoring) if I wanted to use whichever system without alarm.com? Is there a way to set up rules and such locally on the panel or through a computer on the same LAN?

I wanted to address this for the 2GIG Go!Control because I explored the same question before signing on with SuretyCAM monitoring. The Go!Control can function as a perfectly reasonable locally sounding security system if you do not sign up for service. You lose the ability to get any kind of remote notifications or have any remote control. I even tried to set up my cell phone number as the central station number for the panel to dial via PSTN, but since I could not provide the correct electronic handshake it would not accept this configuration. It really is local only without service.

You also basically lose any Z-Wave abilities. I suppose you could turn Z-Wave devices on and off from the panel, but this is less convenient, not more. Without Alarm.com the panel itself cannot handle any rules or schedules, and again, no remote control.

After doing a lot of comparisons, SuretyCAM offers the best service for the most reasonable price. There are many Alarm.com service providers but this is the best bang for the buck. If you want central station monitoring, it’s only a few more dollars a month to add the full suite of Alarm.com features. The Alarm.com website and mobile app are not perfect but are among the best available.

Two other options to consider for going standalone. First is using a Go!Control in conjunction with a MiCasa Verde for home automation. It’s highly customizable and might get you most things you want without a monthly subscription (minus central monitoring of course) but requires a lot (a lot) more screwing around.

Another option is the Lowes Iris system. It’s a little disingenuous to consider this a standalone because it does require a connection to their central system, but they provide a limited functionality “free” plan. You would be locked into the Iris ecosytem and it’s not clear to me it would do everything you want.

A final benefit to consider is this forum you’re on now. The Surety folks monitor these forums and respond quickly. As you’ve seen they are often more knowledgable than the vendors themselves. This makes doing a DIY solution in the 2GIG/Alarm.com ecosytem highly doable - if you run into problems you can actually expect to get help.

Without Alarm.com the panel itself cannot handle any rules or schedules

You have to actually enable Rules on the panel (which is disabled by default) via Q79(2). Once this is enabled the panel supports rules and scenes as well as group automation.

Rules and scenes are more limited than what is offered by alarm.com though, but what you actually lose is remote automation capability.

Light automation is fine without empower.

There are work arounds i suspect for lock/tstat automation without empower. (For example, remotely unlock deadbolt or change thermostat temps without ADC empower by creating a local rule/scene to unlock when panel disarmed, lock when panel armed away, or adjust to set temp when panel disarmed, then simply using website/mobile app, disarm panel remotely, activate the automation rule/scene, then rearm in stay, or away…)