Converting old ADT system

I have a Safewatch Pro 3000 system, which I believe uses Honeywell Vista 20P hardware. I have 7 wired sensors for doors and windows, a wireless ademco 5816 door sensor, and a lc-100-PI motion sensor. I believe the smoke detector is wireless, not sure about the glass break sensor.

I’m looking to upgrade the panel to the Qolsys iq 4, and I’m wondering what I need to convert my existing sensors to work with the new system. I believe this should allow me to integrate most of the wired sensors to work with the new panel right?

Hello I can help some based on what u mentioned u will need the IQ 345 so that it can take over the wireless sensors and Powerg Takover module to use the wired sensor

So this and i assume the 345 is referring to this? How/where do I install the hardwire powerg?

Yes those r the devices u would need and the Powerg Trans device would go in the spot the vista panel is current installed at

So this and i assume the 345 is referring to this ? How/where do I install the hardwire powerg?

Correct on both. The Hardwire PowerG translator would replace the Vista main panel where the sensor wiring terminates.

Check the replace by date on any smoke detectors and replace if expired.

I’ve managed to wire up most of the system. Oddly enough I can’t seem to get the front door sensor to trigger. There are a few different wires that look like sensor wires, but I can’t locate the actual sensor when it’s connected. I tried a few different combinations, but nothing seems to connect to the front door. I’ve located every other sensor.

I’ve also hooked up the glass break sensor to the auxiliary, but it’s not showing up in the sensor list. Is this compatible?

I have a Honeywell ademco 5816 sensor that I see listed as compatible, but it’s not connecting to the panel.

My last question is about powering the power g translator and the iq panel. Both came with AC power units, but the translator didn’t include a cable. Can I just run that off of the old battery from the Honeywell setup? I assume I need to find a way to run the ac adapter through the wall to power the new iq panel and I can’t use the old 4 wires?

If you cannot identify which wires connect to the front door and the prior system did not have adequate labeling, replacement of that zone with a wireless sensor would be a good option.

I’ve also hooked up the glass break sensor to the auxiliary, but it’s not showing up in the sensor list. Is this compatible?

Are you saying you connected both the sensor circuit and the power? Or are you just saying you connect the power to the Aux output but the sensor wires aren’t connected to a zone?

You would need to have the sensor wires connected and the zone would need to be programmed as a glass break after pairing the translator.

My last question is about powering the power g translator and the iq panel. Both came with AC power units, but the translator didn’t include a cable. Can I just run that off of the old battery from the Honeywell setup?

The Translator needs the backup battery, but it cannot just be powered off one indefinitely. You must power the panel and the translator from their respective included transformers.

You can reuse old wiring that is existing from the prior install. The old panel’s AC transformer wiring can be used for the new translator’s transformer.

The new panel can use the old keypad wiring typically but that will depend on the length of the wire and the gauge of the cable. Typically you should use two conductors for positive and two for negative if you are reusing thin keypad wire. This provides the effect of a thicker cable for less voltage drop.

I have a Honeywell ademco 5816 sensor that I see listed as compatible, but it’s not connecting to the panel.

Looking at your orders it looks like the 319.5 Mhz version of the IQ panel was purchased, not the 345. This would be the problem here.

If you only have a couple 345 wireless sensors, due to the price difference of the 345 panel, it would be best to just replace that sensor with a 319.5 IQ sensor or PowerG sensor.

You would need to have the sensor wires connected and the zone would need to be programmed as a glass break after pairing the translator.

I have the 4 wires hooked into the auxiliary 1 port currently. Should that be appearing as a programmable sensor?

The Translator needs the backup battery, but it cannot just be powered off one indefinitely. You must power the panel and the translator from their respective included transformers.

The old panel seemingly didn’t have AC power running to it, what cable do I need to acquire for the transformer since one wasn’t included?

The new panel can use the old keypad wiring typically but that will depend on the length of the wire and the gauge of the cable.

I’ll try that. Will the panel still return the AC power missing error message if it’s receiving enough power from that old cable?

I have the 4 wires hooked into the auxiliary 1 port currently. Should that be appearing as a programmable sensor?

Aux output for power only delivers power to the sensor. The sensor would need to have its sensor circuit connected to one of the zones. Is it?

what cable do I need to acquire for the transformer since one wasn’t included?

If you need new cabling for the power cable, 18/2 AWG cable is recommended. This can be found at hardware stores.

Will the panel still return the AC power missing error message if it’s receiving enough power from that old cable?

Not sure I follow 100%. To clarify: the old keypad cable will have 4 wires. Use two for positive and two for negative, make sure they match up at both the plug-in power supply end and the panel.

Once correct power is applied there would be no power alerts on the panel.