Have not received what I would call definitive confirmation but it does strongly appear to be an incompatibility. The error message during setup is designed to keep installations of this manner from going forward, and the settings which are likely causing the trouble are set automatically during the Alarm.com setup process and cannot be manually disabled, only values adjusted.
I would say it is probably best at this time to swap out if you are unable to run a wire to control the fan independently.
If I do, would a Nest thermostat work instead?
I could not say whether a Nest would accept that wiring setup, but if the documentation states that it will you should be good. Nest integration is on the back end, and the same setup process does not occur through Alarm.com.
OK thanks. From reading posts here it looks like Nest is not quite as capable as the T2000 it terms of integration with ADC and the GC3 so I may try to see if I can put the T2000 in the basement next to the furnace and wire it directly in there. I don’t think running new wire upstairs to the current tstat location is going to be a viable option for me.
If I am able to wire the T2000 in the basement with a G-wire for fan control, would I then be able to use remote temp sensors upstairs where it is warmer? And would there be any kind of remote or secondary thermostat I could use upstairs? Would the GC3 secondary panel work for this when it comes out?
If I am able to wire the T2000 in the basement with a G-wire for fan control, would I then be able to use remote temp sensors upstairs where it is warmer? And would there be any kind of remote or secondary thermostat I could use upstairs? Would the GC3 secondary panel work for this when it comes out?
This is an interesting idea, but there are a few caveats:
As a Z-wave device you would need to make sure the Tstat can communicate with the main panel. Placing it in the basement may require a couple more repeating devices to ensure communication is solid.
The big one though is the RTS is not officially supported by the GC3 yet. We do not have an ETA when that will occur, and temp averaging has not been successful in other cases.
We do not have specific details related to the secondary keypads as far as what they will definitively be able to control, but it sounds like the first would not be able to, but the second would.
The first released is supposedly only arm/disarm, rather simple controls.
The second is more or less identical in capability to the main panel.
Now that’s an interesting gadget. A third party device like this would not be supported by ADC, but yes, it looks like it should work for you and provide fan control, based on the documentation.
Let us know if you end up installing one. I’ve not used one of these myself.
I installed the FAST-STAT 3000 tonight and was able to add a G-wire and C-wire to the tstat using the existing wiring. As far as I can tell, everything is working great. I removed and re-added the tstat to my GC3, and it was recognized and configured through alarm.com. Everything seems to be working great now.
I know I can setup scenes to control my tstat, and I know I can setup schedules and the smart away feature, but I don’t think either of those do exactly what I want. Is it possible to just setup a rule to control the tstat mode, set points, etc based on if the panel is armed away, armed stay, or disarmed? In my Rules section I am only able to automated my locks or security system. Should I be able to automate my tstat through a rule too?
I’m not seeing those available. When I click on Empower > Thermostats I can see all of the controls for my thermostat, but when I click on Empower > Rules > Add a Rule, the only options listed under “Automate My” are “Locks” and “Security System”.
Thermostat automation is found on the thermostat page on the Alarm.com website. You adjust settings for your thermostat on the thermostat card in Alarm.com. Click the configuration gear and select schedules. Here you can adjust the away temperature and basic schedule temps. Then select Smart Away Settings to choose to adjust to the “Away” temp when you arm away. Smart Away requires schedules to be active.
In the top right is thermostat rules and alerts where you can also access smart away. This section also allows some additional adjustments for sensors left open and extreme temps.
I’d prefer to have the tstat follow Away, Home, and Sleep modes based on whether the panel is armed away, disarmed, or armed stay – rather than based on timed schedules which may or may not accurately reflect whether anyone is home, away, or asleep.
No, to clarify, all rules for thermostats are on the thermostats page, not under the separate rules page.
from the other user’s statement:
in the empower section under thermostats
I’d prefer to have the tstat follow Away, Home, and Sleep modes based on whether the panel is armed away, disarmed, or armed stay — rather than based on timed schedules which may or may not accurately reflect whether anyone is home, away, or asleep.
Turning on a schedule does not stop manual adjustments from occurring. If the thermostat is on, the schedule is the baseline temp it will be set at based on a time schedule. You can then choose to set an “Away” temperature which will be used when you arm away.
Sleep is based on time, not an action, but there is no good action to tie it to at the panel. Arm Stay does not always mean the user is going to sleep.
I think what might work better for you given what you are asking about are scenes.
You can create a one button scene for Away and one for Sleep, which in one action can arm your system in the manner you choose, as well as set a target temp and mode for the thermostat. You can include other actions for things like lights and locks.
OK, thanks, it sounds like alarm.com does not work the way I’d like it to then. Perhaps you could pass this on as a feature request.
I’m coming from an Elk M1 in my previous house, with which I could automatically set the tstat to home mode whenever the panel was disarmed, away mode whenever the panel was armed away, and sleep mode whenever the panel was armed stay. That worked perfectly for me.
I know I could work around some of this with scenes, but we usually arm/disarm from the panel itself and my kids don’t even have access to the mobile app to access scenes.
We’re always happy to pass along feedback! We’d like to provide as many options and cover as many situations as possible for users!
I think ADC is trying to cover more complicated scenarios with the current setup, and focuses on fewer manual triggers like arming. Another option to trigger away temperature settings is Geoservices, the cell triangulation of your smartphone location.
Essentially what you are looking for in this case is a way to create a “sleep” temperature trigger. Since you can create a basic schedule that is always the “At home” temp, which changes when armed away and changes back when disarmed, both of those are already available. We’ll mention this to ADC and see if there are any work-arounds.
I need to verify hookup for a t2000 to my system. I have a wire to my rh terminal with a jumper to my rc. Looking at the instructions for the t2000, it says if you have an rc and rh wire remove the jumper. That being said…Is a jumper considered an rh and rc wire, or is this only if there is a wire for each independantly? I installed 2 of these a few days ago and brand new batteries have already depleted in one of them, so I am rechecking everything again.
I need to verify hookup for a t2000 to my system. I have a wire to my rh terminal with a jumper to my rc. Looking at the instructions for the t2000, it says if you have an rc and rh wire remove the jumper. That being said…….Is a jumper considered an rh and rc wire, or is this only if there is a wire for each independantly?
To clarify, the jumper the T2000 references is the small black plastic shunt at the bottom left of the terminal board.
If your old thermostat has two wires coming from your HVAC to the tstat, one into Rh and one into Rc, then the jumper shunt should be removed.
A short jumper wire does not constitute as a wire into Rc. If your old thermostat had a small length of wire between Rh and Rc and a wire from the HVAC only connecting to one of them, then the shunt jumper should be left in place. (the shunt replaces the need for a short jumper wire. Only connect the wire from the HVAC)
We would be happy to help confirm the wiring, please post a photo of your wiring here.
Thanks Jason, I removed the shunt and put in the short bridge wire, so I think no I’m good. Now the only issue is the thermostat being off a few degrees and my monitoring company not giving me access to the advanced options to offset. I am working on transferring over to your service, but it sure isn’t a simple change.
Thanks Jason, I removed the shunt and put in the short bridge wire, so I think no I’m good
To clarify, you should not attempt to place two wires in any of the T2000 terminals. The Shunt on the provided Rh - Rc connection pins should be used instead.
I am working on transferring over to your service, but it sure isn’t a simple change.
It looks like this might be in reference to a GC3, is that correct?
To get started with an existing compatible alarm system with suretyDIY you would just need to have an unregistered Alarm.com cellular communication module. You can check the status of your existing module number here. Replacement modules for 2GIG panels can be found in our store if necessary.
Is there a particular part you are finding troublesome?