Good news on the siren that I can still use.
Yes, you would need a separate power supply for it. Those are pretty cheap though. Can get a 12V 1A power supply from online vendors pretty easily.
Let us know what kind of wire you find for the keypad!
Ok looks like current keypad is using 22 gauge wire. However my basement ceiling is exposed and I can see the exact location where they ran the wire through the floor to the wall to the panel. I already own a wire snake so can easily run new cable if this is not sufficient.
Also another twist. I found a video on the IQ 16F install and I didnāt realize that it was only for use with 319 Mhz. I think I am going with the Honeywell version 345Mhz in order to reduce some of my costs for now. Thus I think I will use the 2GIG take over module. Let me know if that changes anything regarding the siren. Since I have access to where the wires go, I can feed a new wire to the panel as needed. I also believe I may already have a power supply for the siren. There is a small brick plugged into the outlet just below my electrical panel that says alarm on it. So I think I may be good there.
Ok looks like current keypad is using 22 gauge wire. However my basement ceiling is exposed and I can see the exact location where they ran the wire through the floor to the wall to the panel. I already own a wire snake so can easily run new cable if this is not sufficient.
How long is the wire run? 22 is fine for shorter distances. 18 is ideal.
I think I am going with the Honeywell version 345Mhz in order to reduce some of my costs for now. Thus I think I will use the 2GIG take over module. Let me know if that changes anything regarding the siren.
That would change the siren plan yes, as the 2GIG Takeover Module does not support sirens itself.
The Panel relay specifies a max of up to 300ma across the relay. Unfortunately you wouldnāt be able to just use the panel relay for that siren model.
I also believe I may already have a power supply for the siren. There is a small brick plugged into the outlet just below my electrical panel that says alarm on it. So I think I may be good there.
That brick power supply for the Vista is a 16VAC power supply. You cannot wire that directly to a siren.
A separate 12VDC 1A power supply would be needed (in the case of using the Hardwire 16F)
What I was suggesting is that you can use the 12VDC auxiliary output on your old panel as the power supply. That would mean youād have to leave your old panel installed and powered up. Jasonās right, it would be easier and inexpensive to get a new 12VDC 1A power supply and just do away with the old panel if you use the Qolsys 16-F.
If you use the 2GIG super switch takeover youāre actually supposed to use the old panelās auxiliary power as its power supply.
Have u thought about using the 319 pane and doing the 16f and then purchase the universal translator so that you can use the current Honeywell sensors and then u would still be able use either Honeywell or qoulsys or powerg
Hmm, donāt think Iāve seen this. What product is the universal translator, can you provide me a link to it?
Depending on the number of wireless sensors you want to use it can be more cost effective, but not if you have 4 wireless door sensors.
I would recommend just replacing the sensors. Four IQ DW Minis = $76. The translator is $89.
Here is the link though.
Ok, my head is a little all over the place now on this. Now am contemplating going totally wireless and scrapping the existing wired contacts and motion detectors and making them wireless as well. I think I can do this and still fit within my budget. This would eliminate the need for the take over module. The wild card / unknown for me is still the siren. Can I make that work by getting the 12VDC adapter mentioned above or way still too much draw? If not, how loud is the stock siren? Is it audible from outdoors or will it just sound like muffled noise from saw 100 feet away?
R u talking about how loud is the Iq panel
I will say the siren on the Iq panel like if ur away from it like upstairs or somthing it sounds like a Whistle but it does also hurt ur ears js
Ok, so probably not really audible from outside. Hmm, I can probably live like that for a little while and pickup the wireless siren later since I would be subscribing to the monitoring service so at least have some piece of mind there. Some follow up questions then
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Is there an outdoor wired siren that folks have used successfully with this panel? Just seeing if there is a low cost / easy wiring option that might work.
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What wireless motion detectors do people recommend? Right now am looking at the QS1231-840 and the DSC PG9914
If you have wiring already available, any outdoor siren 300ma or less would work (with a supplemental 12V power supply). Looks like the OE-2TONESIRN is an option.
What wireless motion detectors do people recommend? Right now am looking at the QS1231-840 and the DSC PG9914
Those are the two best options I would recommend actually. Both are encrypted. Either would work well.
I will say on top of the panel siren if u enable this option u will also have 2 way voice to where the alarm company can actual talk to u over the panel during a break in or somthing else
There are a couple wired options that would work with the IQ Panel itself.
- Replace your 30W siren with a lower power 15W siren such as the OE-2TONESIRN that has less than 300mA current draw.
- Use the existing 30W siren and get a relay module such as the Altronix RBSN or Honeywell HRBSN to control the siren. The IQ Panel would switch power on the relay and the relay would switch power on the siren.
Either option should be less than $10. You could use one of the pairs in the keypad cable to connect it to the IQ Panelās siren output.
Sorry to thread jack, but I feel this does tie in to the OPās questions.
I have 3 Honeywell/Aurora 4 wire hard-wired motion detectors and a 2Gig Take Over Super Switch module.
Can you please tell me how to wire these to the takeover?
I for the life of me cannot find which wires to hook from the motion to the take, if I need resistors, and if both wires go to the takeover module, how does that look for programming?
I have 3 door sensors wired to the takeover that all function without issue, but those are 1 wire sensors.
Thanks so much for any information!
Can u send a pic of the wire
Not sure which you mean, but here is the motion sensor and the Take module.
I know itās a mess! lol
I believe u would just use the green and white wire the other wire leave connected as is
I appreciate your response, but unfortunately it is not helpful.
I understand the red and black wires are for power, no concern there.
The question is what and how do I connect the two āRā wires to the TAKE module? Do they each go into a zoned number screw? Do I need any resistors? If both wires go into the TAKE module how does the programming look since itād be taking 2 zones?
When I had these hard-wired I thought they had a resistor in-line to the āHIā zone and the other wire went to the āLOā zoneā¦sorry, itās been years since these were hooked up and Iām just trying to finally get them over to my TAKE module.
Thank you!
Can you please tell me how to wire these to the takeover? I for the life of me cannot find which wires to hook from the motion to the take, if I need resistors, and if both wires go to the takeover module, how does that look for programming?
Do you still have the old alarm panel installed? Or are you using a separate power supply?
In general, the detection circuit from the sensor (the green and white wires) are connected to the TAKE. There is no polarity. One of those is connected to the TAKE-345 zone number, the other must connect to GND in some way. (Usually this means leaving it attached to the COM/GND terminals on the old panel (all GNDs are connected internally), but however it connects to the G terminal on the TAKE is fine.
The TAKE does not look for specific resistance, so no resistor is necessary.
The + and - power wires would remain connected to the power supply powering that sensor.
I have 3 door sensors wired to the takeover that all function without issue, but those are 1 wire sensors.
Door sensor circuits all use two wires. One end is connected to G and one to the Zone terminal.
Here is a video on how to install the TAKE that might help!
