Hi, I’ve been “lurking” on this thread. When you mentioned environmental changes that could be affecting his system, such as furniture moving, isn’t it also possible that electronics (even from a neighbor) on a similar frequency could cause enough interference to have this problem? This could be why the user hasn’t “seen” any changes in his home. If this is the case, a new panel may or may not solve it?
When you mentioned environmental changes that could be affecting his system, such as furniture moving, isn’t it also possible that electronics (even from a neighbor) on a similar frequency could cause enough interference to have this problem? This could be why the user hasn’t “seen” any changes in his home. If this is the case, a new panel may or may not solve it?
Interference is possible, but the TS1’s rf is much more likely affected by material attenuation. A neighbor’s device would be highly unlikely a culprit.
The TS1 communicates on 900mhz frequency, similar bands can be found in some cordless home phones and baby monitors, so these might have some effect.
A GC3 and SP1 communicate via wifi, which not only would be unaffected by the same (if present) interference, but would allow improvement if necessary via wireless access points.
Just want to confirm a few items:
- The following statement is 100% true: “If your panel has the word “Emergency” spelled out under the emergency button, it is older and restore would not be supported.” If restore not possible, is it possible to export all the settings to a readable/printable file to ease the manual programming of all sensors to GC3 while keeping all original sensor settings?
- since GC3 SP1 is connected via WiFi to GC3 main panel, would that make sense place GC3 main panel near the entrance and SP1 on the second floor? This is in case WiFi network is down or internet is down and I would have to run upstairs to disable the system (Alarm.com app takes a while sometimes).
- I have a takeover module installed as I have many wired detectors for all windows and doors (from old Brinks alarm system). When I program GC3, how would this need to be performed?
Thank you for all your help.
The following statement is 100% true: “If your panel has the word “Emergency” spelled out under the emergency button, it is older and restore would not be supported.
If your panel has the word “Emergency” written out on the face plate it is an older model which cannot be backed up and restored to a GC3.
is it possible to export all the settings to a readable/printable file to ease the manual programming of all sensors to GC3 while keeping all original sensor settings?
Not in a meaningful way. The only export options do not format information in programming order and there is extraneous info. You are much better off using the GC2 as reference if needed as sensor programming fields are nearly identical between the two. An overall sensor list with sensor types and zone numbers which you can use to help verify all are accounted for is found by clicking the arrow on the Sensor card on your Alarm.com home page.
At the end of each sensor section in the GC2 there is a summary view you can use to match to the GC3 fields.
since GC3 SP1 is connected via WiFi to GC3 main panel, would that make sense place GC3 main panel near the entrance and SP1 on the second floor? This is in case WiFi network is down or internet is down and I would have to run upstairs to disable the system (Alarm.com app takes a while sometimes).
Yes, you could switch the locations if needed, as long as that location has solid cell signal.
I have a takeover module installed as I have many wired detectors for all windows and doors (from old Brinks alarm system). When I program GC3, how would this need to be performed?
The TAKE-345 zones would be programmed identically to their GC2 counterparts. This video shows the installation and programming of a fresh TAKE-345 to understand the basics, but you can simply manually match the programming from GC2 to GC3.
For a basic overview of how TAKE-345 zones are programmed: The first zone will be the TXID on the TAKE. This will always end in “1”
The other zones will be the same TXID except the last digit changes to match the zone input on the TAKE:
Zone 1 = xxxxxx1
Zone 2 = xxxxxx2
xxxxxx3
xxxxxx4
xxxxxx5, etc.
All TAKE-345 zones should be Loop 1.
Once you have all the zones added in programming, power up the TAKE-345, then reboot the GC3. Sensor activity should then register at the GC3.
Just wanted to give you guys an update…
As the last test, I swapped Main panel with TS1 and system test shows that the signal to TS1 is 2-3 red bars instead of one or no bars at all… very strange.
When I started thinking about it, I did install the 2GIG-PIR1-345 PIR detector in the same room as the main panel used to be (at least until yesterday’s swap) and PIR is pointing directly to the main panel. Is that possible that PIR can be creating some kind of interference?
If you are not sure, I can swap the panels back and just take out the PIR and see the effect on TS1 signal.
I just never thought that this could be an issue as the communication frequencies are different between PIR and TS1… unless it is just a coincidence.
If you are not sure, I can swap the panels back and just take out the PIR and see the effect on TS1 signal. I just never thought that this could be an issue as the communication frequencies are different between PIR and TS1… unless it is just a coincidence.
The PIR should have zero effect. It is a 345 mhz device and where it is pointed does not have an effect. It is not emitting energy to detect motion, it is reading the infrared radiation from objects in the room.
There may be something interfering of course, but it wouldn’t be the PIR in this instance.
It is very strange that swapping the two locations would improve the signal, as it is two way communication I would expect the signal to be the same if in the same orientation and distance, unless perhaps the radio antenna itself was loose and the re-installation of the panel or TS1 jostled the antenna? It would definitely be interesting to see if the GC2 shows the same low signal when swapped back. That would definitely indicate something strange going on.
I would need to verify with 2GIG whether the supervision in the case of the TS1 is initiated by the TS1 or the GC2 and whether the signal strength is a 1-way or 2-way measurement.
If you move them back, let us know what you see.
Curious, are both the TS1 and GC2 mounted to the wall?
They were and when I swapped them, I temporary hung them the same way in the same locations.
Also, I did try before to re-seat and change out the antenna in GC2 (I ordered one from u)… no effect.
Is there antenna on TS1?
Just a shot in the dark: Are there any house voltage lines running behind either location? Sometimes power lines can interfere with cellular/Rf radio antenna if it is close enough. It may have more of an impact on one of the panels than the other.
Also, I did try before to re-seat and change out the antenna in GC2 (I ordered one from u)… no effect. Is there antenna on TS1?
Yes, the TS1 has a non-removable antenna at the top-right of its board inside the housing.
Jason,
I Swapped the keypads back to original place, signal strength went down to ZERo bars.
I think we both deserve 2Gig to send us 2 free replacement GC3 keypads for all the trouble/troubleshooting… lol
Well, this is definitely an odd case, but as the antenna configuration is different in the devices it makes sense. Not certain if signal may propagate better/experience less interference based on its direction.
In any case, it seems a quick fix would be to swap the location of the TS1 and Control Panel. As long as this does not negatively affect sensor and cellular performance it should be fine.
Jason,
I have not had any issues since May.
Now this happened twice in last few days… TS1 "un-paired itself from the control panel. I was able to pair it manually like it is a new TS1.
It would happen when I would just walk up to it and press one of the buttons to turn the alarm on. It would reboot and then show unpaired message. I am attaching a picture of the message.
Typically that should only happen if the two face buttons are depressed at the same time for 15-20 seconds. Are the buttons stuck at all?
This may simply be a malfunctioning TS1 if it is resetting intermittently.