Additional Info:
From the Heat Pump to Air Handler are 5 wires
R
O
B
Y
X2 (Auxiliary and Emergency Heat)
There is a white thermostat wire not connected to anything in the Heat Pump side but is connected to the W1 terminal in the Air Handler and on to W1 in the Trane Thermostat.
The X2 Wire is connected to W2 terminal in the Air Handler. That connects to X2 in the Trane thermostat.
I tried running without the X2 in the ADC stat with same result. Hot air in cool mode
I tried X2 tied with W1 at ADC stat thermostat terminal with same result. Hot air in cool mode. Since there is no W1 at the Heat Pump it seems like the X2 is also controlling heat stage or something. Maybe thats the special reason for Trane recommending only their thermostat for heat pump. Maybe the O terminal in the ADC stat is defective. Im out of my depth from here.
Thank you for the images. In discussing with ADC I know we will be re-treading some steps, but we want to get it back to how it should work, and only test from there. From the wiring at your Trane T-stat, try the following:
Tape off X2 - should not be connected.
R to R
B to C
W1 to W1
Y to Y
G to G
O to O/B
Things to double check:
Make sure that power to the Heat Pump is shut off prior to swapping T-stats.
<li>The last time the ADCT2000 was added to your network it reported battery-only power. If connected to the C (B) wire, the Tstat should be receiving 24VAC. </li>
<li>If you have a multimeter you could check voltage between R and C(B). Do you see roughly 24VAC? </li>
<li>Also, double check to make sure that the RH/RC jumper is on the ADCT2000 and has not come off. It will be a little black standard pc computer jumper. </li>
<li>When testing, ensure that you are waiting through compressor delay when switching from heat to cool. </li>
If in the above configuration you get warm air when calling for cold, go into config and change the O/B terminal setting only. Wait ten minutes. Try calling for cold air. Any change?
If not, let us know so we can take a look at the config and make sure the T-stat is accepting the configuration changes. One thing that may be causing an issue:
I do have access to all tabs and it was set for heat pump although i noticed it would occasionally be checked for normal when I would confirm settings. Weird.
If we check for current configuration and the Tstat reports default config, your changes may not be saving at the Tstat.
If configuration reports correctly, you may have a physical defect in the Tstat.
Everything still works if I hook back up trane thermostat with all wires. I just reinstalled the adc yesterday for testing. Do you want me to try the trane without the X2 wire still? FYI, I read the Trane zwave thermostat install guide that Alarm.com shows on their website and it seemed to not have a X2 port either and it stated to connect X2 and W1 into the W1 port on new stat. That’s why I tried on ADC stat but no luck. I wandering if they need to be jumpered together on the air handler terminal board or somewhere else. The install guide for AH refers to jumping together in various situations. Trane support should at least be able to tell us the what we need done. Also, I had power at breakers off last night so that’s why the battery message was from. I do get 24V between R and C(B). If I test O, what should it read in the various modes?
Do you want me to try the trane without the X2 wire still?
No no, we want to have the ADC-T2000 hooked up per the above post.
We just want to make sure everything is zeroed out, have the ADC Tstat installed as it is expected to work, and only change one thing at a time, to make sure nothing was missed during testing.
A 24VAC system shouldn’tbe incompatible. The cool air problem is likely isolated to the reversing wire, but we need to verify that remote configuration is actually getting saved at the Tstat as well.
Ok, I’ll do that asap. the programming on website says set for 1 stage pump and 1 aux heat. Should it be 2 for pump, one for heat and one for cool? The heat pump was wired in trane thermostat per diagram for 2h 1c. Terminology is confusing
Should it be 2 for pump, one for heat and one for cool? The heat pump was wired in trane thermostat per diagram for 2h 1c. Terminology is confusing
It can definitely be a little opaque.
In this case, no, the Heat Pump stages are not additive, 1 stage means one for heat, one for cool. The 1 stage heat pump and 1 aux stage should be correct.
ok, X2 is capped off behind thermo, jumper is on for RH to RC. programming looks right. do you want to check it before I test? Also, should I always test heat mode before cool? I havent been doing that.
How long do you allow for the test? Testing heat before cool is not necessary, just wanted to make sure you were waiting the required time if that was the case. (just trying to rule out every possibility)
Just checked the programming, looks like it is reporting correctly.
Let us know what you set the target to and whether it functions incorrectly
I just tested heat first with target temp of 90. I let it run for ten minutes and it was working fine. I did turn it off before the target temp was hit. Ill retest with a lower target to see if it reaches it ok. Just trying not to heat the house up. Wife is already not happy about my little thermo project. lol
As long as we know heat is working, we can move on to cool. Just leave the mode on auto, and lower the target temp from the website or panel for cool mode below the current temp by a couple degrees.
You’ll need to wait for the fan purge and delay. The Tstat should then call for cool. when it does, wait a few minutes and check the register, is it cool air or no?
After retesting the ADC stat with the recommended processes again the result is the same. This time I measured the voltages from the Thermostat terminals in both cool and heat mode and I can say 100% that “O” is not energizing to activate the reversing valve. Trane units energize the valve in cooling mode and it stays energized until a call for heat is given or you switch off the breakers. I reinstalled the Trane thermo and replicated the exact voltage testing and confirmed that this is indeed how this unit operates. I also tested both thermos with and without the X2 aux wire and it has no bearing on the issue as you thought. Unless ADC or Trane has any further suggestions its looking like a bad thermostat. I should of mentioned earlier that I am a security field technician and worked for one of the large residential alarm companies that uses 2gig and alarm.com. Although I didnt install the ADC-T2000 as I had moved on when it came out. I bought the adc t2000 over a year ago but just got around to installing it recently and hope it is still warrantied if a RMA is needed and possible.
I agree, if the O/B terminal is simply not energizing the wire on a call for cool air and you have tried both O and B settings in Alarm.com then something seems physically amiss since we have exhausted all other standard troubleshooting. I’m double checking warranty info on the ADC-T2000 and will follow up, however it may in fact be one year.
Hey Jason, I just got a message from customer service saying the warranty is expired. Before I order another ADC stat from you, Can you check with alarm.com/Trane on this issue to see if they have any recommendations as far as field install. There are various ways to install thermostats involving the intial field wiring like jumping together different wires, etc that I have read but not fully understood. Also, if ADC stat is not compatible, is another stat you offer a better choice? Alarm.com has a Trane branded thermostat on their website but my Trane dealer doesnt carry it. Can I get that from you if possible?
We do not stock or sell the Trane Z-wave T-stat (model # TZEMT400AB32MAA).
It may be available from other Vendors. Most Z-wave devices are widely available online.
For a 24V system, the ADC-T2000 should work fine. The CT100 is another option we’ve liked to use in the past.
We’ve spoken with Trane and ADC during the course of this issue and no special considerations were brought up. Based on the wiring instructions above, it was confirmed that the O terminal should energize.
So I installed the adc-t2000 at a friend’s house who I also installed a 2 gig alarm.com system in last year and it works fine. He just has standard air conditioning with gas furnace so didn’t need to use O terminal. I’m just not convinced one terminal is bad. I disassembled the stat to inspect for viable signs of damage, burnt resistor or component, loose solder joint, burnt smell, etc and it all looked good. In Trane documentation in states to use Trane stats with Trane heat pumps for proper functionality. I attached a sheet from ALARM.COM doc on smart stat and it mentions situations requiring proprietary stats. Can you please double check with Trane and see if that’s the case and if so what stat can I get from them that will work.
So I installed the adc-t2000 at a friend’s house who I also installed a 2 gig alarm.com system in last year and it works fine. He just has standard air conditioning with gas furnace so didn’t need to use O terminal. I’m just not convinced one terminal is bad. I disassembled the stat to inspect for viable signs of damage, burnt resistor or component, loose solder joint, burnt smell, etc and it all looked good. In Trane documentation in states to use Trane stats with Trane heat pumps for proper functionality. I attached a sheet from ALARM.COM doc on smart stat and it mentions situations requiring proprietary stats. Can you please double check with Trane and see if that’s the case and if so what stat can I get from them that will work.
